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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had the vehicle 6 months, a couple of weeks ago wouldn't start, battery flat, charged it up overnight fine but over a few days it was obvious that the battery was slowly going down. Not been using the car much due to Covid restraints and most journeys just short runs to shops often with lights on so have kept it up with battery charger but voltage drops over a couple of days with cold nights to about 12.1-12.2 volts from 13+ if car isn't used so I want to fit a new battery, the existing one is just over 5 years old.
This is my first technologically "modern" vehicle, all computer-controlled :mad:, all the others, to change the battery you just took the old one out and put the new one in but I decided to check for any changes that might apply to cars with keyless entry/stop/start ECU controlled everything like I had bought. Reading what I have found suggests that the new battery will require registering with the Battery Management System, the Nissan Connect might require re-registering (I don't have the PIN code), the key code may be lost etc etc and good knows what else. So, surely there's someone on here who has fitted a new battery, if so did cause all this hassle? Has anyone just done a straightforward disconnect, remove and replace and did it cause any problems? I don't really want to start buying any more car maintenance kit unless there is no other way, my garage is full of it.
 

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Had the vehicle 6 months, a couple of weeks ago wouldn't start, battery flat, charged it up overnight fine but over a few days it was obvious that the battery was slowly going down. Not been using the car much due to Covid restraints and most journeys just short runs to shops often with lights on so have kept it up with battery charger but voltage drops over a couple of days with cold nights to about 12.1-12.2 volts from 13+ if car isn't used so I want to fit a new battery, the existing one is just over 5 years old.
This is my first technologically "modern" vehicle, all computer-controlled :mad:, all the others, to change the battery you just took the old one out and put the new one in but I decided to check for any changes that might apply to cars with keyless entry/stop/start ECU controlled everything like I had bought. Reading what I have found suggests that the new battery will require registering with the Battery Management System, the Nissan Connect might require re-registering (I don't have the PIN code), the key code may be lost etc etc and good knows what else. So, surely there's someone on here who has fitted a new battery, if so did cause all this hassle? Has anyone just done a straightforward disconnect, remove and replace and did it cause any problems? I don't really want to start buying any more car maintenance kit unless there is no other way, my garage is full of it.
I changed mine recently on a T31 and did nothing but disconnect ,take old one out put new one in and reconnect although I did have to put in the radio code. Im not aware of any battery management setting on mine so may be that is something that's been introduced on more recent models but I'm sure there's other helpful folk on here who will have changed a battery on newer models.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I changed mine recently on a T31 and did nothing but disconnect ,take old one out put new one in and reconnect although I did have to put in the radio code. Im not aware of any battery management setting on mine so may be that is something that's been introduced on more recent models but I'm sure there's other helpful folk on here who will have changed a battery on newer models.
Good to hear, thanks.
 

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I'm in the same situation. Have a new battery ready to go on, but have the same concerns. The last thing I want is for the keys to not work anymore, rendering the car useless, as I read that somewhere else.
The employee at the battery shop I bought it from had said it may need coding to the car. But the way they get round that is to keep jump leads connected to the cars battery connectors, and a 12v source, so it technically doesn't lose an electrical connection at any point. But that seems easier said than done.

It looks like the T31 is a different beast to the T32, electronically at least, so I'd hold out for a firmer answer. Unless you've done the swap already?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm in the same situation. Have a new battery ready to go on, but have the same concerns. The last thing I want is for the keys to not work anymore, rendering the car useless, as I read that somewhere else.
The employee at the battery shop I bought it from had said it may need coding to the car. But the way they get round that is to keep jump leads connected to the cars battery connectors, and a 12v source, so it technically doesn't lose an electrical connection at any point. But that seems easier said than done.

It looks like the T31 is a different beast to the T32, electronically at least, so I'd hold out for a firmer answer. Unless you've done the swap already?
I'd read that solution which is perfectly feasible, I have jump leads and a battery charger that could be used as a 12v source or you could just connect the charger leads to the clamps on the cables on the car then disconnect them from the battery with the charger still connected. Trouble is the batteries are heavy, around 20Kg and could be a struggle to get out without knocking the cables and perhaps dislodging the clips so you'd lose the supply. Another suggestion was to connect a power supply via one of the power points inside the car which of course eventually connects to the battery leads and would keep the supply going while changing the battery but you have to have the ignition key switched to the "ACC" position, something you can't do with a "keyless" car. I have checked to see if there was power at these points without the ignition switched on but there isn't, the only thing that still has power with everything switched off is the USB point but of course, that's 5v. I'm not really too worried about coding the battery, the BMS (Battery Management System) adjusts the charging rates from the alternator to take into account the condition of the battery, as the battery ages I think it adjusts the charge rate and pattern to compensate. I'm sure if it's that clever it would soon re-adjust itself to match the new one but I'm not absolutely certain, certainly attaching an external power source while changing the battery would not code it anyway. The pros use a small hand held computer device that reads and records the battery code and a power connector that plugs in to the cars OBDC socket that connect directly to the car's ECU's and supplies power to them while the battery is disconnected.
Let's hope there's someone out there who's tried and succeeded and can tell us what they did or even someone who tried and failed and what happenned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I had mine done back in Jan 2021 no problems.
That's cheating! I've read however about quite a few "professionals" who haven't done the job right first time and had to sort it out afterwards including Half**ds. They fit for £25 but presumably, you have to buy from them and their prices are about £15 up on what's available online, they don't do a battery for my X-trail anyway (no stop/starters available).
 

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I'd read that solution which is perfectly feasible, I have jump leads and a battery charger that could be used as a 12v source or you could just connect the charger leads to the clamps on the cables on the car then disconnect them from the battery with the charger still connected. Trouble is the batteries are heavy, around 20Kg and could be a struggle to get out without knocking the cables and perhaps dislodging the clips so you'd lose the supply. Another suggestion was to connect a power supply via one of the power points inside the car which of course eventually connects to the battery leads and would keep the supply going while changing the battery but you have to have the ignition key switched to the "ACC" position, something you can't do with a "keyless" car. I have checked to see if there was power at these points without the ignition switched on but there isn't, the only thing that still has power with everything switched off is the USB point but of course, that's 5v. I'm not really too worried about coding the battery, the BMS (Battery Management System) adjusts the charging rates from the alternator to take into account the condition of the battery, as the battery ages I think it adjusts the charge rate and pattern to compensate. I'm sure if it's that clever it would soon re-adjust itself to match the new one but I'm not absolutely certain, certainly attaching an external power source while changing the battery would not code it anyway. The pros use a small hand held computer device that reads and records the battery code and a power connector that plugs in to the cars OBDC socket that connect directly to the car's ECU's and supplies power to them while the battery is disconnected.
Let's hope there's someone out there who's tried and succeeded and can tell us what they did or even someone who tried and failed and what happenned.
I've done some research, as I also had all of those same concerns regarding an additional battery, cables coming loose, even the ignition being off. It looks like the ignition stays on for a few minutes after its been locked, I've noticed this from when I installed dash cam.

What I am hopefully going to do later, is use the ring connectors of my battery charger (https://www.amazon.co.uk/CTEK-CTE-5...locphy=9044952&hvtargid=pla-562541214142&th=1) To securely connect to the cars battery connectors, so I don't have to worry about the crocodile clips coming loose. I have a C-tek charger that does supply a constant 12v.
If you are able to do that with your battery charger, that might be an option for you. Typically I only just permanently installed this connector into my other car, for easy charging, literally days ago. After having that connector for 5 years or so, doing nothing.

I've a feeling that it would absolutely be needed to maintain a supply. A straight, normal battery swap looks like it would cause problems. Just this morning in -2°c, the infotainment unit had refused to start up. Said "Secure - System is locked. Green. Please contact your dealer" So they certainly are a bit fussy. Luckily it managed to work after about half an hour or so, and turning the ignition off and starting again around 5 minutes later. I'm not even sure why that would have happened, as I didn't disconnect anything previously. Have just been charging the battery the night before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I've done some research, as I also had all of those same concerns regarding an additional battery, cables coming loose, even the ignition being off. It looks like the ignition stays on for a few minutes after its been locked, I've noticed this from when I installed dash cam.

What I am hopefully going to do later, is use the ring connectors of my battery charger (https://www.amazon.co.uk/CTEK-CTE-5...locphy=9044952&hvtargid=pla-562541214142&th=1) To securely connect to the cars battery connectors, so I don't have to worry about the crocodile clips coming loose. I have a C-tek charger that does supply a constant 12v.
If you are able to do that with your battery charger, that might be an option for you. Typically I only just permanently installed this connector into my other car, for easy charging, literally days ago. After having that connector for 5 years or so, doing nothing.

I've a feeling that it would absolutely be needed to maintain a supply. A straight, normal battery swap looks like it would cause problems. Just this morning in -2°c, the infotainment unit had refused to start up. Said "Secure - System is locked. Green. Please contact your dealer" So they certainly are a bit fussy. Luckily it managed to work after about half an hour or so, and turning the ignition off and starting again around 5 minutes later. I'm not even sure why that would have happened, as I didn't disconnect anything previously. Have just been charging the battery the night before.
Looks like a good bit of kit, what's the current rating? I have one old fashioned charger, one smart charger and an optimiser, I'm not sure how the latter two would actually react to not being connected to a battery however. I could make up a couple of leads, I have terminals, cable and crimping tool and I recon there's about enough thread showing on the studs on the cable connectors to get another nut on top (just have to find the right ones). A charged up lead acid battery doesn't give 12v of course, it's 13.2v so I'll have to check the open circuit voltage of my old charger on its low setting, normally it's 14+ volts. We'll get there!
 

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Looks like a good bit of kit, what's the current rating? I have one old fashioned charger, one smart charger and an optimiser, I'm not sure how the latter two would actually react to not being connected to a battery however. I could make up a couple of leads, I have terminals, cable and crimping tool and I recon there's about enough thread showing on the studs on the cable connectors to get another nut on top (just have to find the right ones). A charged up lead acid battery doesn't give 12v of course, it's 13.2v so I'll have to check the open circuit voltage of my old charger on its low setting, normally it's 14+ volts. We'll get there!
Its served me well. I have the 7amp version, looks like its 99.99 in Halfords now, here CTEK Multi MXS 7.0 Battery Charger

I got that one specifically as it had the constant power supply option. I didn't have many power supplies back then, for testing things, got loads now. Good point about the 13.2v. This does give 12v constant, but I've seen people do it with a 9V battery. As it sounds like the issue with the Connect infotainment needing a code, battery learning etc, is if it goes to 0v. That's just my observations from a lot of reading up though. I don't know that for sure.

Looks like I probably won't do the swap over today, I will do on the weekend. Getting a bit cold out. So its much easier for me to just charge the car up for now. This will be the 3rd night running I've charged it. Might be overkill, but it does trickle charge when its full. I just used my bluetooth OBD reader to read the voltage after I parked it up. Its dropping from 12.6v to 12.2v after a few minutes of being off, double locked from the remote, which seems to be the quickest way to get the ignition off completely. The bluetooth OBD device I use, and have had for a few years is pretty snazzy for the price. Its sounds a bit like I'm selling things, but I'm not affiliated with any of these companies. If you are interested it is this OBD bluetooth device I pair it with my android phone to read real time data on the car. So I have been checking the alternator is charging the battery when driving. Its been showing as between 14.3 and 14.6v. Which is interesting as the guy at the battery place had said the alternator was only charging it at 11.6v. I did also confirm it with a multimeter, and it was in the 14+ volt range. Also the OBD device (I'm not a salesman, I promise) can obviously read any fault codes stored on the ECU. I've used it on a fair range of different cars. Even managed to turn off an airbag warning light on a VW T6 Transporter.
 

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The charging logic on Nissans are weird. I have a cig light socket volt meter. And it showed 12.2 v after few minutes when the engine was started. I thought that the alternator was failing. But it was the charging logic. On the neg battery post is the battery current flow and temp sensor. If the current flow and temp changes then the ecu pulls charging away.
I have the sensor unpluged and the system voltage is now over 14v all the time.
The same charging logic is in the T32 too. Ad the stop/start system and the battery is under charged.
One Chehian guy played with resistors on his qasqai and the system thinks now that the battery is cold or something, so it does not need to be unplugged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Its served me well. I have the 7amp version, looks like its 99.99 in Halfords now, here CTEK Multi MXS 7.0 Battery Charger

I got that one specifically as it had the constant power supply option. I didn't have many power supplies back then, for testing things, got loads now. Good point about the 13.2v. This does give 12v constant, but I've seen people do it with a 9V battery. As it sounds like the issue with the Connect infotainment needing a code, battery learning etc, is if it goes to 0v. That's just my observations from a lot of reading up though. I don't know that for sure.

Looks like I probably won't do the swap over today, I will do on the weekend. Getting a bit cold out. So its much easier for me to just charge the car up for now. This will be the 3rd night running I've charged it. Might be overkill, but it does trickle charge when its full. I just used my bluetooth OBD reader to read the voltage after I parked it up. Its dropping from 12.6v to 12.2v after a few minutes of being off, double locked from the remote, which seems to be the quickest way to get the ignition off completely. The bluetooth OBD device I use, and have had for a few years is pretty snazzy for the price. Its sounds a bit like I'm selling things, but I'm not affiliated with any of these companies. If you are interested it is this OBD bluetooth device I pair it with my android phone to read real time data on the car. So I have been checking the alternator is charging the battery when driving. Its been showing as between 14.3 and 14.6v. Which is interesting as the guy at the battery place had said the alternator was only charging it at 11.6v. I did also confirm it with a multimeter, and it was in the 14+ volt range. Also the OBD device (I'm not a salesman, I promise) can obviously read any fault codes stored on the ECU. I've used it on a fair range of different cars. Even managed to turn off an airbag warning light on a VW T6 Transporter.
Obviously it's digressing from the actual topic but the info you're providing is proving great. I started riding at 16 and driving at 20 and have maintained and fixed everything I owned, I'd buy the kit needed to do the job but physical infirmity has severely curtailed that for a few years, over a period of 60 years I've accumulated rather a large amount of stuff including an old OBDC reader but that only reads the fault codes, it's not a Smart device. I no longer seek out new Kit to buy, I wouldn't invest in the battery charger but the Bluetooth OBDC reader looks absolutely brilliant, a must have. Reading the reviews would indicate that those using free software find its capability rather limited (like it doesn't read the voltages), those who buy more expensive (£25) apps say it's great, I wondered what your thoughts were and what app you were using. I presume that you need to plug it in to a socket to power it to set up the Bluetooth connection, where's the socket in the X-Trail?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The charging logic on Nissans are weird. I have a cig light socket volt meter. And it showed 12.2 v after few minutes when the engine was started. I thought that the alternator was failing. But it was the charging logic. On the neg battery post is the battery current flow and temp sensor. If the current flow and temp changes then the ecu pulls charging away.
I have the sensor unpluged and the system voltage is now over 14v all the time.
The same charging logic is in the T32 too. Ad the stop/start system and the battery is under charged.
One Chehian guy played with resistors on his qasqai and the system thinks now that the battery is cold or something, so it does not need to be unplugged.
Thanks for the reply. I didn't have any problem at all until the cold weather came so maybe it could be the Battery Maintenance System, I hadn't thought about that, maybe I should get the battery drop tested to see if it is really knackered. Leaving the sensor unplugged seems a bit drastic, couldn't this result in overcharging the battery and cooking it?
 

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Obviously it's digressing from the actual topic but the info you're providing is proving great. I started riding at 16 and driving at 20 and have maintained and fixed everything I owned, I'd buy the kit needed to do the job but physical infirmity has severely curtailed that for a few years, over a period of 60 years I've accumulated rather a large amount of stuff including an old OBDC reader but that only reads the fault codes, it's not a Smart device. I no longer seek out new Kit to buy, I wouldn't invest in the battery charger but the Bluetooth OBDC reader looks absolutely brilliant, a must have. Reading the reviews would indicate that those using free software find its capability rather limited (like it doesn't read the voltages), those who buy more expensive (£25) apps say it's great, I wondered what your thoughts were and what app you were using. I presume that you need to plug it in to a socket to power it to set up the Bluetooth connection, where's the socket in the X-Trail?

I'm using Torque Pro for Android. Which I paid £2.95 for in 2015. I can't see how much it would cost now, as it won't show me, because I already have it. But if you do have android, it can be found here: Torque Pro (OBD 2 & Car) – Apps on Google Play
I checked with a friend who has an iPhone, and he said its not available on their store. So I'm not sure what to suggest if you have an iPhone. If you don't, there is also a Torque Lite app on Google Play, which looks like its most of the main features, but with ads. I just realised I bought my OBD reader from amazon in 2012. So I'm not sure what I used it for, if at all, before I got Torque Pro. I probably tried to get it working in my Subaru, before realising there isn't many cheap options for reading data on the older models.

The socket in the X-trail is behind a removable cover, on the drivers side, below the steering wheel, From memory, its probably in line with the fuel and bonnet release, to the left of it. Its about a 6 inch wide panel, 3 inch high, with a cut out to get your fingers in. You can then just pull the panel off. The OBD adapter does stick out a fair bit. But I can't say the wife or myself have easily knocked it off when its been in situ. All of the power is supplied direct from the OBD port, to set the Bluetooth up. Plug and play.
 

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These are great little devices that provide quite a lot of information admittedly a lot of which I don't understand but there you go. I bought mine, ELM327, so that I could check fault codes and perhaps fix issues myself or at least have an idea of the problem should I need to go to a garage. I also use torque pro with it and have not been disappointed. There are plugin apps available to use alongside Torque pro as well so all in all well worth a tenner .

Sent from my moto g(9) plus using Tapatalk
 

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Ok I have just changed the battery, using the method of a permanent 12v to additional terminals on the cars battery leads. See pic:

Motor vehicle Hood Electrical wiring Automotive tire Automotive exterior


Positive lead cable tied back with some foam flooring to stop it shorting anything. These connections were live, as you can see by the Supply indicator on the CTek charger


Did it work? Well I've got no error codes. Radio came straight on, all pre-sets there. The trip on the mileage was still as it should have been. I did hear a crackle when I disconnected the negative additional terminal. Which I think is that charging sensor as Ahto42 mentioned. Also, the clock when I got in the car was 00.25. So perhaps I did disconnect it completely for a bit? But when I heard the crackle, it was whilst the main negative was still connected. I did notice the oil service reminder hasn't come up again. But I only tested it briefly to see if there were any major issues. The clock corrected the time within a minute. While I'm on that subject, I have noticed sometimes the clock is out by an hour in the mornings, then reverts within a few minutes. Day light saving schedule maybe?

Another thing I also noticed, is that when the engine wasn't started, the voltage seemed to be just battery voltage, and not charging from the alternator. Could be that its a new battery? Or maybe this is part of the battery learning process? In that case, maybe this whole experiment didn't work. I will test it properly on a run later.

So after all that, I don't really have a definitive answer to your original question, Chris :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok I have just changed the battery, using the method of a permanent 12v to additional terminals on the cars battery leads. See pic:

View attachment 36329

Positive lead cable tied back with some foam flooring to stop it shorting anything. These connections were live, as you can see by the Supply indicator on the CTek charger


Did it work? Well I've got no error codes. Radio came straight on, all pre-sets there. The trip on the mileage was still as it should have been. I did hear a crackle when I disconnected the negative additional terminal. Which I think is that charging sensor as Ahto42 mentioned. Also, the clock when I got in the car was 00.25. So perhaps I did disconnect it completely for a bit? But when I heard the crackle, it was whilst the main negative was still connected. I did notice the oil service reminder hasn't come up again. But I only tested it briefly to see if there were any major issues. The clock corrected the time within a minute. While I'm on that subject, I have noticed sometimes the clock is out by an hour in the mornings, then reverts within a few minutes. Day light saving schedule maybe?

Another thing I also noticed, is that when the engine wasn't started, the voltage seemed to be just battery voltage, and not charging from the alternator. Could be that its a new battery? Or maybe this is part of the battery learning process? In that case, maybe this whole experiment didn't work. I will test it properly on a run later.

So after all that, I don't really have a definitive answer to your original question, Chris :(
Ok I have just changed the battery, using the method of a permanent 12v to additional terminals on the cars battery leads. See pic:

View attachment 36329

Positive lead cable tied back with some foam flooring to stop it shorting anything. These connections were live, as you can see by the Supply indicator on the CTek charger


Did it work? Well I've got no error codes. Radio came straight on, all pre-sets there. The trip on the mileage was still as it should have been. I did hear a crackle when I disconnected the negative additional terminal. Which I think is that charging sensor as Ahto42 mentioned. Also, the clock when I got in the car was 00.25. So perhaps I did disconnect it completely for a bit? But when I heard the crackle, it was whilst the main negative was still connected. I did notice the oil service reminder hasn't come up again. But I only tested it briefly to see if there were any major issues. The clock corrected the time within a minute. While I'm on that subject, I have noticed sometimes the clock is out by an hour in the mornings, then reverts within a few minutes. Day light saving schedule maybe?

Another thing I also noticed, is that when the engine wasn't started, the voltage seemed to be just battery voltage, and not charging from the alternator. Could be that its a new battery? Or maybe this is part of the battery learning process? In that case, maybe this whole experiment didn't work. I will test it properly on a run later.

So after all that, I don't really have a definitive answer to your original question, Chris :(
Ok I have just changed the battery, using the method of a permanent 12v to additional terminals on the cars battery leads. See pic:

View attachment 36329

Positive lead cable tied back with some foam flooring to stop it shorting anything. These connections were live, as you can see by the Supply indicator on the CTek charger


Did it work? Well I've got no error codes. Radio came straight on, all pre-sets there. The trip on the mileage was still as it should have been. I did hear a crackle when I disconnected the negative additional terminal. Which I think is that charging sensor as Ahto42 mentioned. Also, the clock when I got in the car was 00.25. So perhaps I did disconnect it completely for a bit? But when I heard the crackle, it was whilst the main negative was still connected. I did notice the oil service reminder hasn't come up again. But I only tested it briefly to see if there were any major issues. The clock corrected the time within a minute. While I'm on that subject, I have noticed sometimes the clock is out by an hour in the mornings, then reverts within a few minutes. Day light saving schedule maybe?

Another thing I also noticed, is that when the engine wasn't started, the voltage seemed to be just battery voltage, and not charging from the alternator. Could be that its a new battery? Or maybe this is part of the battery learning process? In that case, maybe this whole experiment didn't work. I will test it properly on a run later.

So after all that, I don't really have a definitive answer to your original question, Chris :(
So, you bit the bullet, I'm a bit away from trying it because I have yet to find my ring terminals and crimping tool, my Bluetooth OBDC reader arrives from Amazon tomorrow and I have found Torque Pro on Playstore still at £2.95! Glad everything seems to have worked out OK and fingers crossed about the "not charging from the alternator", as you say it could be that the new battery is fully charged and not calling for anything from the alternator, whenever I've bought a new battery I've always put it on charge before installation and they've always taken a bit. When you've used it a bit you'll know if it's working or not but I recon that Battery Registration could probably be done retrospectively if there's a problem, just got to find somebody with the kit. I wait with bated breath to hear what the outcome is. Could be that something shows up on the OBDC.
You may not have been able to give me a definitive yes/no answer, really the only important thing is that I get to change the battery without major problems and the leads you have given me (pun intended) have been hugely helpful and I thank you for that. I intend to take more voltage readings (and record them this time) including the voltage across the battery with the engine off and running, all the readings so far have been taken immediately after charging with a battery charger then again some time afterwards so I have no idea what the alternator is putting out. Will post the results.
 

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Thinkdiag+ from ebay and it is a proper scantool to scan amm modules. Elm127 reads only the engine obd2 codes and limited data.
 

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So, you bit the bullet, I'm a bit away from trying it because I have yet to find my ring terminals and crimping tool, my Bluetooth OBDC reader arrives from Amazon tomorrow and I have found Torque Pro on Playstore still at £2.95! Glad everything seems to have worked out OK and fingers crossed about the "not charging from the alternator", as you say it could be that the new battery is fully charged and not calling for anything from the alternator, whenever I've bought a new battery I've always put it on charge before installation and they've always taken a bit. When you've used it a bit you'll know if it's working or not but I recon that Battery Registration could probably be done retrospectively if there's a problem, just got to find somebody with the kit. I wait with bated breath to hear what the outcome is. Could be that something shows up on the OBDC.
You may not have been able to give me a definitive yes/no answer, really the only important thing is that I get to change the battery without major problems and the leads you have given me (pun intended) have been hugely helpful and I thank you for that. I intend to take more voltage readings (and record them this time) including the voltage across the battery with the engine off and running, all the readings so far have been taken immediately after charging with a battery charger then again some time afterwards so I have no idea what the alternator is putting out. Will post the results.
Thats good. Torque Pro is well worth it at £2.95 still.
It seems to have worked OK. Battery charging does seem normal again. There wasn't any codes, but that might be because it only reads engine codes ad Ahto42 mentioned.

I got in the car at 23.07 last night, and noticed the clock was reading 00.07. It seems to revert to the daylight saving times when the car is cold. Doesn't seem to like that. Usually sorts its self out in a few minutes. It does seem to happen quite a lot. Have you ever noticed it? I do use my watch a lot anyway, but sometimes it can be a bit of a shock in the mornings when you think you are an hour late.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thats good. Torque Pro is well worth it at £2.95 still.
It seems to have worked OK. Battery charging does seem normal again. There wasn't any codes, but that might be because it only reads engine codes ad Ahto42 mentioned.

I got in the car at 23.07 last night, and noticed the clock was reading 00.07. It seems to revert to the daylight saving times when the car is cold. Doesn't seem to like that. Usually sorts its self out in a few minutes. It does seem to happen quite a lot. Have you ever noticed it? I do use my watch a lot anyway, but sometimes it can be a bit of a shock in the mornings when you think you are an hour late.
I have also seen the time revert to daylight saving but only once and it changed as you say in a few minutes, very cold morning and at the same time the parking sensors stopped working until it got warmer.
Glad to hear things seem to have sorted themselves out and charging OK now.
Just finished the Torque Pro setup, spent most of last night watching YouTube videos and reading up about it because I didn't want to do that sitting in a cold car, it is very sophisticated but also quite complicated to add things to the live data screen unless you know exactly what it's called, I really wanted to monitor battery voltage prior to starting the engine but had difficulty until I found that you can't, the voltage it reads is that at the ECU which can be somewhat different. Before doing anything else I checked the battery voltage with my multimeter, after 48 hours without use or charging it had dropped from 12.68v (12.36v 15 minutes after disconnecting charger) to 12.1v, not encouraging and sure enough it wouldn't start and the voltage was down to 11.92. Torque Pro was registering 11.1v but last night I saw something about being able to correct for over/under reading.
No doubt in my mind then I need to replace the battery. Your old battery in the photo looks exactly the same as mine, mine's a Panasonic 75Ah CCA 660A SS and measures 250mm L 170mm W and 190mm D but I couldn't find any Panasonic car batteries for sale anywhere or any others the same physical size. After hours of searching I settled for a Bosch S5A08 AGM SS as my first preference but it's 278mm L 175mm W and 190mm D (same as the one in our Golf GT) and they all seem to be that size and it's 70Ah CCA760 SS. Measuring up it looks as though it will fit OK but tight and the Bosch has handles to save trapped fingers as the weight's approaching 20Kg, just wondered what you bought and if it went in easily?
 
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