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I have also seen the time revert to daylight saving but only once and it changed as you say in a few minutes, very cold morning and at the same time the parking sensors stopped working until it got warmer.
Glad to hear things seem to have sorted themselves out and charging OK now.
Just finished the Torque Pro setup, spent most of last night watching YouTube videos and reading up about it because I didn't want to do that sitting in a cold car, it is very sophisticated but also quite complicated to add things to the live data screen unless you know exactly what it's called, I really wanted to monitor battery voltage prior to starting the engine but had difficulty until I found that you can't, the voltage it reads is that at the ECU which can be somewhat different. Before doing anything else I checked the battery voltage with my multimeter, after 48 hours without use or charging it had dropped from 12.68v (12.36v 15 minutes after disconnecting charger) to 12.1v, not encouraging and sure enough it wouldn't start and the voltage was down to 11.92. Torque Pro was registering 11.1v but last night I saw something about being able to correct for over/under reading.
No doubt in my mind then I need to replace the battery. Your old battery in the photo looks exactly the same as mine, mine's a Panasonic 75Ah CCA 660A SS and measures 250mm L 170mm W and 190mm D but I couldn't find any Panasonic car batteries for sale anywhere or any others the same physical size. After hours of searching I settled for a Bosch S5A08 AGM SS as my first preference but it's 278mm L 175mm W and 190mm D (same as the one in our Golf GT) and they all seem to be that size and it's 70Ah CCA760 SS. Measuring up it looks as though it will fit OK but tight and the Bosch has handles to save trapped fingers as the weight's approaching 20Kg, just wondered what you bought and if it went in easily?
Torque is reading what the ECU says the voltage is, so I suppose there is room for error. I've been able to read the voltage with Torque, just from turning the ignition on, and connecting to the OBD reader. I do turn off any other electrical drains, fans, headlights etc I find the ignition stays on for around 3 minutes after turning the car off, so I can still get readings from Torque then.

I assumed the Panasonic battery, with also having lots of Japanese writing on, may have been the original battery. So I was keen to change it as its approaching 5 years old. It is also ****** heavy, and doesn't help not having a handle. In the picture above, my charging cables just obscure the full text, but its reads 20HR 75Ah CCA 660 D26 (JIS). My X-trail is the 2.0 dci.

I got myself an Exide EFB EL754 from a local shop that only sells car batteries. I can't find specifics of that model for sale online in this country, some details here, EXIDE RFB EL754
Exide used to have a factory fairly close by, that was a big thing here.in the 70's through to till early 2000's.Not that that influenced my decision. I just like that it was local, had a 3 year warranty and was fairly cheap. It was £103.86 all in. It did go in easily because of the handles. I didn't do any measurements, as it looked very similar, by eye.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Torque is reading what the ECU says the voltage is, so I suppose there is room for error. I've been able to read the voltage with Torque, just from turning the ignition on, and connecting to the OBD reader. I do turn off any other electrical drains, fans, headlights etc I find the ignition stays on for around 3 minutes after turning the car off, so I can still get readings from Torque then.

I assumed the Panasonic battery, with also having lots of Japanese writing on, may have been the original battery. So I was keen to change it as its approaching 5 years old. It is also ** heavy, and doesn't help not having a handle. In the picture above, my charging cables just obscure the full text, but its reads 20HR 75Ah CCA 660 D26 (JIS). My X-trail is the 2.0 dci.

I got myself an Exide EFB EL754 from a local shop that only sells car batteries. I can't find specifics of that model for sale online in this country, some details here, EXIDE RFB EL754
Exide used to have a factory fairly close by, that was a big thing here.in the 70's through to till early 2000's.Not that that influenced my decision. I just like that it was local, had a 3 year warranty and was fairly cheap. It was £103.86 all in. It did go in easily because of the handles. I didn't do any measurements, as it looked very similar, by eye.
That looks an excellent match, if I could have located one online I would have bought it, looks like it's a Czech Republik only model and there's only 2 available at stockists in the whole country so they may have stopped producing them and you had a lucky find. I've just bought an Exide EL700 EFB, closest I could get for £89 including delivery. The Bosch S5A I was going to buy was £119 delivered and was AGM which requires a special AGM charging cycle and our originals must have been EFB because they are vented whereas AGM are sealed, just got to find my cable terminals so I can make some leads! BTW I hate Stop/Start, first thing I do when I start the car is switch it off, when you are pulling out into small gaps in fast moving traffic streams the couple of seconds delay is not only annoying but also dangerous.
 

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If you disconnect the neg lead battery sensor connector, then the SS system does not work. It show an error about that. And now the old alternator takes over the charging. Like on the old days.
Also disconnecting the hood close switch should disable the stopstart.
 

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My stop start barely comes on really. But that's because I have A/C on most of the time. As soon as I turn it off, when stationary, stop start activates.

Would disconnecting the bonnet switch not throw up an error on the screen inside? Like when a door is open?
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
If you disconnect the neg lead battery sensor connector, then the SS system does not work. It show an error about that. And now the old alternator takes over the charging. Like on the old days.
Also disconnecting the hood close switch should disable the stopstart.
I like stuff as it was in the old days, maybe I bought the wrong car 😁! I don't want to mess with anything that I don't have to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
My stop start barely comes on really. But that's because I have A/C on most of the time. As soon as I turn it off, when stationary, stop start activates.

Would disconnecting the bonnet switch not throw up an error on the screen inside? Like when a door is open?
The only time my A/C comes on is when I'm demisting or defrosting the windscreen, when it's warm I prefer to open the roof. One of the reasons I was happy to change from my Toyota Landcruiser was seeking an mpg improvement and A/C reduces economy which isn't as good as I hoped it would be anyway.
I would think that when the bonnet was closed, the bonnet switch would be open so disconnecting it would have the same effect as if the bonnet was shut. I've been leaving my bonnet on the latch at night so if the battery was so flat it wouldn't unlock I could get in to connect the charger, I found that if the bonnet was slightly up when I tried to lock the car a continuous alarm sounded, I had to push the bonnet down but not to the locked position then the alarm stopped.
This evening I went out to collect our Grandson from a nearby village, a round trip of about 12 miles and I had Torque Pro on my phone, magic, I only had the voltmeter and tachometer on the screen so was able to watch the voltage change in real-time from switching the ignition on (12.2v), starting the car and driving (14.3-.5v) and after stopping (12.8v quickly dropping to 12.5v). When I got back inside the house my phone was still monitoring the car voltage live! I've just installed the fuel consumption meter, it was in Km per Litre, took me longer to find how to change it to MPG than to add the meter to my display but I'm learning the menu logic 😊, won't know if it's worked however until I next connect to the car (tomorrow).
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
The only time my A/C comes on is when I'm demisting or defrosting the windscreen, when it's warm I prefer to open the roof. One of the reasons I was happy to change from my Toyota Landcruiser was seeking an mpg improvement and A/C reduces economy which isn't as good as I hoped it would be anyway.
I would think that when the bonnet was closed, the bonnet switch would be open so disconnecting it would have the same effect as if the bonnet was shut. I've been leaving my bonnet on the latch at night so if the battery was so flat it wouldn't unlock I could get in to connect the charger, I found that if the bonnet was slightly up when I tried to lock the car a continuous alarm sounded, I had to push the bonnet down but not to the locked position then the alarm stopped.
This evening I went out to collect our Grandson from a nearby village, a round trip of about 12 miles and I had Torque Pro on my phone, magic, I only had the voltmeter and tachometer on the screen so was able to watch the voltage change in real-time from switching the ignition on (12.2v), starting the car and driving (14.3-.5v) and after stopping (12.8v quickly dropping to 12.5v). When I got back inside the house my phone was still monitoring the car voltage live! I've just installed the fuel consumption meter, it was in Km per Litre, took me longer to find how to change it to MPG than to add the meter to my display but I'm learning the menu logic 😊, won't know if it's worked however until I next connect to the car (tomorrow).
The only time my A/C comes on is when I'm demisting or defrosting the windscreen, when it's warm I prefer to open the roof. One of the reasons I was happy to change from my Toyota Landcruiser was seeking an mpg improvement and A/C reduces economy which isn't as good as I hoped it would be anyway.
I would think that when the bonnet was closed, the bonnet switch would be open so disconnecting it would have the same effect as if the bonnet was shut. I've been leaving my bonnet on the latch at night so if the battery was so flat it wouldn't unlock I could get in to connect the charger, I found that if the bonnet was slightly up when I tried to lock the car a continuous alarm sounded, I had to push the bonnet down but not to the locked position then the alarm stopped.
This evening I went out to collect our Grandson from a nearby village, a round trip of about 12 miles and I had Torque Pro on my phone, magic, I only had the voltmeter and tachometer on the screen so was able to watch the voltage change in real-time from switching the ignition on (12.2v), starting the car and driving (14.3-.5v) and after stopping (12.8v quickly dropping to 12.5v). When I got back inside the house my phone was still monitoring the car voltage live! I've just installed the fuel consumption meter, it was in Km per Litre, took me longer to find how to change it to MPG than to add the meter to my display but I'm learning the menu logic 😊, won't know if it's worked however until I next connect to the car (tomorrow).
Could you possibly post a picture of your new installation, I'm particularly interested in how you've routed your connector leads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Chris, if you were asking me, see the attached View attachment 36332
Thanks, that's exactly what I wanted. I wondered how you'd routed the wire from the positive terminal so you could still get the terminal cover down. I was going to bring mine out to the left rather than the right because there's a slot in the cover that the wire could come through withought obstruction. I'll post a picture of mine when it's done.
 

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I've actually left the quick charger connection on there still, cable tied it so no vibrations or anythinf metal wearing through the insulation. Hopefully I won't need it, but I think I'll get a longer one for my other car, so I can charge it from inside the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I've actually left the quick charger connection on there still, cable tied it so no vibrations or anythinf metal wearing through the insulation. Hopefully I won't need it, but I think I'll get a longer one for my other car, so I can charge it from inside the car.
I never intended to remove it once it's all set up, too much hassle, going to replicate the installation in our Golf which fortunately doesn't lose anything if you disconnect the battery. Don't like croc clips at the best of times, think this plug in is great and the plug/sockets that I bought came in sets of 5. I also got 5m of cable so I might even use the battery in the Golf as my temporary power supply when doing the changeover.
 

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Replaced mine on a 2019 1.7dci 4x4 xtronic Tekna a couple of months ago. Just took old one out and put new one in. No messing about with power supplies, jump leads etc.
Everything works fine as soon as connected, only the trip data like mpg and avg speed were reset. There are no particularly smart features in the X-Trail stop start and charging system So swapping batteries is straight forward.
 

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Replaced mine in 2019 1.7dci 4x4 xtronic Tekna a couple of months ago. Just took old one out and put new one in. No messing about with power supplies, jump leads etc.
Everything works fine as soon as connected, only the trip data like mpg and avg speed we’re lost. There are no smart features in the X-Trail stop start and charging system So swapping batteries is straight forward.
Thanks. good to know for next time. Hopefully won't be for another 5 years or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I've actually left the quick charger connection on there still, cable tied it so no vibrations or anythinf metal wearing through the insulation. Hopefully I won't need it, but I think I'll get a longer one for my other car, so I can charge it from inside the car.
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fine so I

Been a long time, was waiting for a nice warm sunny day to tidy up the installation to my satisfaction. Installation went perfectly, radio stations still there and clock still showing the correct time so I guess you must've disconnected for a short while when attaching your cables but glad it sorted itself quickly. Only thing I've had problems with is the physical fitting of the battery, the cables from the positive were fouling a pipe behind the battery so I struggled to get it square in the holder, still isn't perfect but acceptable. I decided to make the wires to the socket short and drop them down behind the battery as you see and have kept the socket on the battery itself by hooking the wires over the battery clamp rods, and I intend to make a bracket/holder for the socket to make the installation look more professional however the road to hell is paved with good intentions and I'll probably just slide a piece of plastic/rubber tube over the thread to prevent the insulation chafing, I thought this would be better than mounting it this way rather than on the body with longer leads that would be more prone to vibration damage. I would like to thank you for the advice and recommendations that you gave me, as you know I bought the OBD reader and software app you recommended and the socket installation advice followed, I'm 100% happy with them, I love technology and all were bargains and worked very well indeed, only thing that hasn't worked was even after changing the Torque Pro preferences from litres to gallons and km to miles the consumption is still reading litres per km, the dials however have changed OK. The OBD reader and Torque Pro now face a bigger problem, sorting out the ever returning engine management light and power loss on my wife's Golf GT but at least I recon I've got some good kit to face the challenge, it has the worst life possible for a car, used only in town in bad traffic, journeys 2-3 miles stop-start traffic several times a day shopping, taxiing grandkids around and visiting our daughter the other side of town and still returns around 40+ mpg, anything else it's the X-Trail. Next post on here to see if there's any updates on the infuriating eternal rebooting of the Nissan Connect!
 
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