Nissan X-Trail Forum banner
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can anyone guide me on what the best way to deal with the steering column when dropping the subframe on a 2.2 Dci? I'm almost to that operation and I see maybe two ways of dealing with it:

1. a small bolt at the steering knuckle which will probably be a pain to deal with when lowering the engine

2. There are two 19mm (guessing) bolts that hold the steering rack to the subframe.

What's the easiest route. Sorry, I don't have the DDTI manual.

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Looks like I have a mount in the back attached to the transmission. It's shown in the engine removal instructions, but not listed as one of the mounts to tend to. I believe it has a through bolt.

BTW, found a link to online manual sections here somewhere, big help.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
leafy, do I need to drop the A-arms and the rear of the subframe too, or just the crossmember?

Edit: I believe I answered my own question, I see a couple conflicts with just dropping the cross member. But after laying under the truck for a good 30 minutes contemplating the job, I believe that I can split the subframe; drop the rear half first then the rest. I've completely dismantled the front hubs so I believe it's do-able.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The two bolts holding the steering rack? They look a bit complicated to access, in the clear, but kind of at an angle.

Liberating the PS pump lines was a complete fluid mess tonight. There's really no way to get around that one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Ha-haha... HOLY COW!! These bolts are insaaaaaane!!

I broke one free with a breaker bar and a steel pipe, but the other is close to the fuel lines and it's hard to get a decent angle on it. Those things must be torqued to God-like specs or have some legit thread lock on them.

I'm going to open a bottle of champagne if I don't destroy the second one and actually get it loose. Going to try to soften it up with an impact wrench... if I can get an angle on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I GOT IT!!! 😎

I was about to give up and throw my tools across the garage when I noticed a small opening from the side, inside the wheel-well, where I had just removed the sway bar (with the rest of the suspension). I fed the breaker bar through that hole from the outside and was able to seat the socket onto the bolt head with about 10 mm of space between the bar and the frame. It as juuust enough room for the initial "CRACK!" of the bolt. I literally hung on the bar upside-down like a three toed sloth and bounced up and down with all my weight. I'll tell ya, when those things finally break, it sounds like the socket or the bar itself exploded.

Champagne tonight! A toast to small, big victories! After 5 days of slugging away at every single little thing bolted to the front end of that truck, the subframe is finally ready to drop. I supported the steering rack with some thick zip-ties all over as it looks like there is nothing but the steering column knuckle to support it's entire weight once the subframe goes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yes, I am. I purchased the LUK clutch and DMF.

The only items coming off the original engine are the PS pump, fuel pump and injectors, for the time being anyway. I am unable to code anything new out here so those fuel items will have to wait. I do have a new Denso SCV for the fuel pump, although, I'm contemplating whether or not to change it as the one on the old engine works well. Also considering changing the PS pump since I'm right there, in the clear, might be worth the 300 euros now vs. the total headache later.
 

·
Registered
08' T31 Adventurer 2.0dci
Joined
·
703 Posts
Luk good make ,fitted one myself to a 2.2 dci .Just remember the locating peg and hole on the back of DMF flywheel and crankshaft .(But I expect
you know that ,saves fitting it all and car not running for a simple mistake ) Yes SCV is easy enough to do while engine fitted . Tire Wheel Motor vehicle Automotive tire Locking hubs
Wheel Automotive tire Tire Tread Motor vehicle
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Fitting hole, yes. Thanks for the reminder though because the head is full of things to remember.

Going to drop the engine this afternoon. Probably going to need the farmer neighbour to come by with his forklift to raise the front of the truck up another couple of feet to get it all out. Looks like the engine is going to have to settle on the legs of the shop hoist too. I have some old hardcore oak wood planks to soften the touchdown. Should make pulling it out from under the truck a touch easier as well since the hoist has handles. That's how I moved the engine into the garage when it arrived on its pallet. I figure another 200 kg max for the trans and transfer case. Should be fine, all of the suspension has been removed from the subframe.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top