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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all - this has been getting steadily worse over the last 9 months to a point where my Nissan X-Trail 2012 Dci is cutting out almost daily. My Nissan dealer is not 100% convinced that the codes being reported are accurate. I thought I'd reach out here to see if anyone else has experienced this problem. Some observations:

- Started about 9 months ago. Regularly serviced with no prior issues.
- No warning, no loss of power, no shuddering - engine cuts out without warning (yep, very dangerous!)
- Engine has cut out at all speeds, from standing still to 70 mph
- Engine has cut out in all types of weather and temperatures
- When engine cuts out all the power lights are on, I drift to the side of the road - power steering still works. I brake, bring the X-Trail to a full stop, turn off the ignitiion, wait a few seconds and it restarts immediately. If I try to restart within the first 1-2 seconds it will start but then instantly cut out again.
- Codes I had reported by another garage:
(1) P0100 Air Mass Sensor
(2) P0110 Air Intake Temp Sensor
(3) P0100 Injector Short Circuit
(4) P1525 Cruise Control

Each time I talk to someone about this they *think* they know what the problem *could* be but to be honest I can't afford to drop £1500 on new injectors only to find out it won't solve the problem. I'm no expert in Diesels so am looking for some other advice here! Does anyone have a clue what could be causing this?

Many thanks in advance
 

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Welcome to the house of fun :biggrin:

Firstly the advice you will get from forum members will in the main be good, but at very best it will be an educated guess based on the information provided.

With regards to the fault codes you have listed I think the first thing I would look at would be the MAF sensor. On the T30 this also incorporates the air intake temperature sensor, so I am assuming the T31 is the same. Give the maf a good clean by spraying with electrical contact cleaner but dont touch the element. Or you could just replaceit with a new one.

Injectors can be tested to make sure they are operating correctly, a lot cheaper than replacing.

Cruise control is probably a red herring as when some codes are generated it disables the cruise control.

However....

None of the codes you have listed would cause an immediate shutdown of the engine, at very worst it would put the vehicle into limp mode and flash the eml at you.

My advice would be...
Check all electrical connections are clean and tight, in particular..
Battery terminals
Starter motor terminals
Alternator terminals
Engine earth / ground terminals
Chassis earth / ground terminals

Check all electrical plugs are latched in properly.

Once this has been done, get the historic codes cleared from the ecu.

One question. Do you have a yellow eml / check engine light showing.

Best regards
Milton :biggrin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Milton - many thanks for the prompt reply. Very much appreciated. Yes, the EML is Yellow when this happens and stays on for about 2 days. Assuming the engine doesn't cut out the EML will disappear after approx. 2 days.
 

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milton said:
Welcome to the house of fun :biggrin:

Firstly the advice you will get from forum members will in the main be good, but at very best it will be an educated guess based on the information provided.

With regards to the fault codes you have listed I think the first thing I would look at would be the MAF sensor. On the T30 this also incorporates the air intake temperature sensor, so I am assuming the T31 is the same. Give the maf a good clean by spraying with electrical contact cleaner but dont touch the element. Or you could just replaceit with a new one.

Injectors can be tested to make sure they are operating correctly, a lot cheaper than replacing.

Cruise control is probably a red herring as when some codes are generated it disables the cruise control.

However....

None of the codes you have listed would cause an immediate shutdown of the engine, at very worst it would put the vehicle into limp mode and flash the eml at you.

My advice would be...
Check all electrical connections are clean and tight, in particular..
Battery terminals
Starter motor terminals
Alternator terminals
Engine earth / ground terminals
Chassis earth / ground terminals

Check all electrical plugs are latched in properly.

Once this has been done, get the historic codes cleared from the ecu.

One question. Do you have a yellow eml / check engine light showing.

Best regards
Milton :biggrin:
I really am guessing, but the terminal connections above could give all sorts of oddities, and so might a faulty battery. Good luck.
 

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Could be a long shot, but possibly a simple one.....

I may be wrong, but I understand that the brake-light switch (pedal) cuts the engine when active (obviously not at idle though!)
eg. if you're accelerating and touch the brake pedal with the other foot, the engine cuts.

Just a thought that if the switch or it's operation is faulty, it may be causing intermittent loss of power
I've attached relevant page from ESM..

Good luck
 

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i had an issue with my t31 a while back , it would suddenly drop revs to tick over then after a restart it was fine , i cant remember the codes , but i guessed it was the throttle position sensor and replaces the entire pedal which sorted it
 

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milly5419 said:
Could be a long shot, but possibly a simple one.....

I may be wrong, but I understand that the brake-light switch (pedal) cuts the engine when active (obviously not at idle though!)
eg. if you're accelerating and touch the brake pedal with the other foot, the engine cuts.

Just a thought that if the switch or it's operation is faulty, it may be causing intermittent loss of power
I've attached relevant page from ESM..

Good luck
I have driven my T31 with the left foot on the accelerator and the right on the brake a number of times, this is when I find that the brake disks are getting a bit rusty from lack of use and also to dry the disks after washing the car. The engine never cuts out or reduces power. I can see that there is some connection in that you can not start the car unless the brake peddle is pressed.
 

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chrisuk said:
milly5419 said:
Could be a long shot, but possibly a simple one.....

I may be wrong, but I understand that the brake-light switch (pedal) cuts the engine when active (obviously not at idle though!)
eg. if you're accelerating and touch the brake pedal with the other foot, the engine cuts.

Just a thought that if the switch or it's operation is faulty, it may be causing intermittent loss of power
I've attached relevant page from ESM..

Good luck
I have driven my T31 with the left foot on the accelerator and the right on the brake a number of times, this is when I find that the brake disks are getting a bit rusty from lack of use and also to dry the disks after washing the car. The engine never cuts out or reduces power. I can see that there is some connection in that you can not start the car unless the brake peddle is pressed.
Do you drive with your legs crossed Chris :confused: :lol: :whistle: :biggrin:
 

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milton said:
chrisuk said:
milly5419 said:
Could be a long shot, but possibly a simple one.....

I may be wrong, but I understand that the brake-light switch (pedal) cuts the engine when active (obviously not at idle though!)
eg. if you're accelerating and touch the brake pedal with the other foot, the engine cuts.

Just a thought that if the switch or it's operation is faulty, it may be causing intermittent loss of power
I've attached relevant page from ESM..

Good luck
I have driven my T31 with the left foot on the accelerator and the right on the brake a number of times, this is when I find that the brake disks are getting a bit rusty from lack of use and also to dry the disks after washing the car. The engine never cuts out or reduces power. I can see that there is some connection in that you can not start the car unless the brake peddle is pressed.
Do you drive with your legs crossed Chris :confused: :lol: :whistle: :biggrin:
Oops
 

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Hi, I would be looking ate the wire harness to the engine. You are getting the lights coming on and also the electric power steering is still working, so not a power failure.
The 1st 2 codes can both be a wire brake.
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0100
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0110
Your 3rd one could be because of the 1st 2 code, as cruise control is disabled when a the EML shows for any reason, as already mentioned. Also found this for the P1525 code.

Nissan X-Trail P1525 Code Meaning :
P 1 5 2
OBD-II Diagnostic Powertrain (P) Trouble Code For Engine. Fuel And Air Metering. Fuel Composition Sensor Circuit Malfunction. Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Low.
5
Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Malfunction

So you can see that each letter/number has a specific point to look at. This to me is to many things at once to be a coincidence, which is I why I feel it is an electrical fault. The 1st thing I always check is all the bus connections on the ECU (battery disconnect) then other conections. I can not see that you have a problem with the injector at all. The MAFF can be unplugged and driven that way. The ECU will use a fixed map to run the engine, but will rule it out as the cause, which I also doubt is the problem.
 

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Hi all - this has been getting steadily worse over the last 9 months to a point where my Nissan X-Trail 2012 Dci is cutting out almost daily. My Nissan dealer is not 100% convinced that the codes being reported are accurate. I thought I'd reach out here to see if anyone else has experienced this problem. Some observations:

  • Started about 9 months ago. Regularly serviced with no prior issues.
  • No warning, no loss of power, no shuddering - engine cuts out without warning (yep, very dangerous!)
  • Engine has cut out at all speeds, from standing still to 70 mph
  • Engine has cut out in all types of weather and temperatures
  • When engine cuts out all the power lights are on, I drift to the side of the road - power steering still works. I brake, bring the X-Trail to a full stop, turn off the ignitiion, wait a few seconds and it restarts immediately. If I try to restart within the first 1-2 seconds it will start but then instantly cut out again.
  • Codes I had reported by another garage:
(1) P0100 Air Mass Sensor
(2) P0110 Air Intake Temp Sensor
(3) P0100 Injector Short Circuit
(4) P1525 Cruise Control

Each time I talk to someone about this they think they know what the problem could be but to be honest I can't afford to drop £1500 on new injectors only to find out it won't solve the problem. I'm no expert in Diesels so am looking for some other advice here! Does anyone have a clue what could be causing this?

Many thanks in advance
I've just bought a X trail the engine cuts out and it's annoying the alarm goes of at random times does your alarm go of at random times.
 

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Hi all - this has been getting steadily worse over the last 9 months to a point where my Nissan X-Trail 2012 Dci is cutting out almost daily. My Nissan dealer is not 100% convinced that the codes being reported are accurate. I thought I'd reach out here to see if anyone else has experienced this problem. Some observations:

  • Started about 9 months ago. Regularly serviced with no prior issues.
  • No warning, no loss of power, no shuddering - engine cuts out without warning (yep, very dangerous!)
  • Engine has cut out at all speeds, from standing still to 70 mph
  • Engine has cut out in all types of weather and temperatures
  • When engine cuts out all the power lights are on, I drift to the side of the road - power steering still works. I brake, bring the X-Trail to a full stop, turn off the ignitiion, wait a few seconds and it restarts immediately. If I try to restart within the first 1-2 seconds it will start but then instantly cut out again.
  • Codes I had reported by another garage:
(1) P0100 Air Mass Sensor
(2) P0110 Air Intake Temp Sensor
(3) P0100 Injector Short Circuit
(4) P1525 Cruise Control

Each time I talk to someone about this they think they know what the problem could be but to be honest I can't afford to drop £1500 on new injectors only to find out it won't solve the problem. I'm no expert in Diesels so am looking for some other advice here! Does anyone have a clue what could be causing this?

Many thanks in advance
May you try to adjust you throttle sensor to it's position, or to replace the with the new one...gud day
 
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