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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I thought I would have a go at replacing my 2003 Diesel Nissan X-trail's front discs but try as I might they won't budge. Am I supposed to remove the large middle nut? It does not look as if it is holding the disc in but I guess I could be wrong.

TIA

Olly
 

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NO YOU DON'T TOUCH THE LARGE MIDDLE NUT.

This is used to hold the hub onto the stub axle.
If you already have then it is a one-use nut and cannot be reused so you will need a new one with a new splitpin.

I recently replaced my discs, front and rear.
All that holds the disc on is the rim when the wheel nuts are tightened and the brake caliper.
If the disc is a little difficult to come off, tap it with a hammer while pulling it off.
I assume you have undone the sliding bolt nut of the brake caliper and swung it out of the way ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks to you both for replying but one of you says take it off the other says NO WAY! I have not taken anything off yet so will wait for clarification. My car is a 2003 (03) not (53) Diesel X-Trail and I don't think the disc is seized on cos I whacked it an awful lot all be it with a rubber mallet. The guidance from the mechanics manual below implies the nut should be removed first. See steps 4 and then 5.

REMOVAL
1. Remove tire. Remove brake hose lock plate from strut.
2. Remove brake caliper from steering knuckle. Hang it in a place where it will not interfere with work.
CAUTION:
Avoid depressing the brake pedal with brake caliper removed.
3. Remove ABS wheel speed sensor from steering knuckle.

FRONT WHEEL HUB AND KNUCKLE
4. Remove cotter pin. Use a hub lock nut wrench to remove lock
nuts from drive shaft.
5. Remove disc rotor from wheel hub.
6. Remove cotter pin. Use a ball joint remover to remove tie rod
from steering knuckle.
CAUTION:
When using a ball joint remover, install nuts temporarily.

Thanks again

Olly
 

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What you posted are the instructions for removing the HUB.
For this you need to remove the nut.

The disc is not part of the hub. It is separate.
As such you do not need to remove the nut.
I have attached a pic of my rear wheel with the disc removed from when I did the replacements.
NOTICE the hub nut is still on and the disc is off.
This is the rear but the fronts are the same, without the handbrake drum shoes and larger.
HandbrakeDrumShoes.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks so much for the pics, very very useful.
I agree the instructions I copied were concerning the hub removal but it did say remove the lock nut first then the disc rotor, I thought it would have said 'take off wheel, remove calipers and pads, take disc off and then remove the hub lock nut'.

Anyway any tips on how on earth I am going to get the brake disc off then cos I banged away at it with a rubber mallet for an hour and there was no movement whatsoever.

TIA

Olly
 

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oliverl66 said:
Anyway any tips on how on earth I am going to get the brake disc off then cos I banged away at it with a rubber mallet for an hour and there was no movement whatsoever.
Tip #1 is don't use a rubber mallet, use a proper hammer, tapping lightly.
The rubber mallet will partially absorb the shock of the hit which will not transfer the shock to break the "seal" of the locked-on rotor.
I started with a rubber mallet also, then used a normal hammer, tapping around the centre portion of the rotor which sits over the studs as I pulled it off by hand and this started loosening it.

Tip #2 is to spray a little wd40 or other spray lubricant on the studs where they go through the rotor.
This will help to break the "seal" of the locked rotor on the studs. Just make sure to wipe any residue off the rotor (if you are going to re-use it) and studs afterwards.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Eureka!! It came off. Cheers mate you really helped me out. Next problem is a knocking noise on the right side when I brake. It wasn't there before so I guess it could be just bedding in of new discs and new pads. The shims are a bit rough but I dont have anymore at the moment. Some people say it could be that the disc needs rotating in case it is slightly warped. I dont have one of those disc indicator things so any ideas again would be appreciated.

Thanks again, you have been a great help.

Olly
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Keeps knocking as you said. Since my last post I took the disc off again and rotated it a bit and then took the car for a spin and I followed the Burnishing procedure outlined in the manual. Seems okay now. I wondered if I hadn't cleaned the disc enough and that there was some residual oil on it so the pad may have been sticking and then slipping causing the caliper to knock. I did reuse the old shims but everything went to plan once I had got that pesky disc off.

Thanks again for sticking with me on this. I may be contacting you again in the future.

olly
 

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Hi Guys

Have read all the above with great interest as am going to have to replace both front and rear discs and pads on my 02 XT. The above has now given me the confidence to have a go.

Just one question. Is there anywhere to lubricate around the brake caliper when you put the new shoes back on?

Many thanks
 

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crispypancake said:
Hi Guys

Have read all the above with great interest as am going to have to replace both front and rear discs and pads on my 02 XT. The above has now given me the confidence to have a go.

Just one question. Is there anywhere to lubricate around the brake caliper when you put the new shoes back on?

Many thanks
Look in the T30 How To's section Front & Rear pads replacement it gives you the info on lubrication points. Look at link below
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=2033
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
brakeparts.co.uk

See for yourself! £20.24 each. Pads were cheap too and they were Nippart originals.

Your payment was successful & your order is now being processed.

1 x BPS2775 @ 22.70 = 22.70 BRAKE PAD SET
2 x BDS5934 @ 20.24 = 40.48 VENTED BRAKE DISC

Olly
 
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