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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Car has been operating apparently fine recently with no warnings, loss of power, changes in fuel consumption or smoke etc. I did a 40 mile return journey yesterday with no issues.

On attempt to start early this morning for journey to work (battery fine, starter motor fine etc), engine turned over normally, however just kept turning without firing up. I gave it a few seconds and tried again, same thing. Switched everything off, locked and unlocked car with remote (in case of immobiliser issue), but engine still cranked as before without firing up.

When engine was turning, there were no unusual sounds at all and turned normally (so hopefully not timing chain but not sure how to eliminate this). I had to get a lift to work and leave car behind, but very worried about what might be wrong,

T31 Diesel 2L Manual M9R Engine 2008 120,000 miles
Fully serviced at correct intervals, generally very well maintained, and always driven carefullly
Fuel filter changed every 35,000 miles approx, last change (Nissan part) in May this year. Old filter was clean inside with no deposits, debris or visible dirt.

Any similar experiences and how you fixed car would be appreciated, or ideas on what things I could investigate or look for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
In the quietness of the early hours this morning, when waiting for my lift to work, I turned the ignition on to listen for fuel pump. I could clearly hear a small click from the fuel tank area behind me as the ignition is turned to on, but definitely no fuel pump sound. After the click, just silence. I'm sure if fuel pump was running, there would at least be a light buzzing sound?

Has anyone had their fuel pump changed? I take it I will need to remove fuel tank to get at it?
When I get time I will need to double check by turning ignition to on (without letting engine start) with the relevant pipe removed from the fuel filter to ensure no fuel is flowing.
 

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Yes worth looking at the fuel pump if it has one .Afraid I don't know much about the T31 setup as only a relatively new owner of one ,as I know the T30 doesn't have one..I did bag a nice Suzuki Vitara years ago which would not start .I acquired it as a non runner at the time .I asked the fella if it had any running problems leading up to the fault and there wasn't any at all (Like you had no running problems) .Once I got to look at it underneath I found a wire had corroded off the external fuel pump .I quickly bared the ends of the wires and stuck them together ,sat in the car and it started straight away :)

Like you say remove a feed pipe at filter end to see if any flow OR at least listen for a pump down by the tank .It looks like the pump is inside the tank sender unit .There should be an inspection plate I guess under the rear seats or at least somewhere above the tank to get to the top of fuel tank ,then you can unscrew the sender pump unit from tank ,very much like the T30 ,just change the pump if it is the problem or maybe it has become clogged up ?? Hope you sort it anyway whatever the problem is.
 

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There is no lift pump in the fuel tank in diesel x-trails. Do not go in that rabbit hole.
For glow plugs it too warm out side. Injectors may be the issue. The return line has to be under pressure and there is a special return pipe with a valve in it. It fails too and if there is no back pressure then the engine will not start. It is like 100€+labor. If that is sorted out then test for injector leak.
It is a manual, have you tried pulling/push start?
 

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I had a similar problem - eventually started but only after several attempts and I was about to give up. Turned out to be an air leak in the fuel line (hairline crack in the priming bulb). I replaced the bulb, reprimed the fuel using it and all was well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Interesting that my X-Trail doesn't have any fuel pump at tank end, only behind engine.
My fuel flow test by removing priming bulb pipe at fuel filter with ignition on was meaningless.

Yes, I thought about the immobiliser, but I cannot disconnect battery. I don't have radio codes and I don't want to screw up anything. You may notice I did a post not that long ago asking if there is any way I can change my battery without losing system power by use of a trickle charger, or by connecting up new battery with jump leads before removing old battery from system. No-body was able to help me on that one so still using old battery.

Thanks anyway guys for pointers. It does look like the problem is too complex for me to sort out. Will have to find a mechanic with a diagnostic laptop and who understands complex fuel injection systems and get car towed there.
 

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For the battery swat you have to have 2 additional batteries. One for the temp power or a jump pack. Then the battery you want install.
You can use jumper leads or build cig lighter plug, connect it with the temp battery to the correct poles, turn the key to acc and insert the plug to the cig lighter socket. Then the power comes from the lighter. Some plugs go to the OBD port too.

 

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Interesting that my X-Trail doesn't have any fuel pump at tank end, only behind engine.
My fuel flow test by removing priming bulb pipe at fuel filter with ignition on was meaningless.

Yes, I thought about the immobiliser, but I cannot disconnect battery. I don't have radio codes and I don't want to screw up anything. You may notice I did a post not that long ago asking if there is any way I can change my battery without losing system power by use of a trickle charger, or by connecting up new battery with jump leads before removing old battery from system. No-body was able to help me on that one so still using old battery.

Thanks anyway guys for pointers. It does look like the problem is too complex for me to sort out. Will have to find a mechanic with a diagnostic laptop and who understands complex fuel injection systems and get car towed there.
That's odd as mine has never asked for any radio code when battery disconnected by me!!! Perhaps because mines different system? My battery was disconnected for around 15 mins and simply reconnected - all I had to do was a rescan for stations
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ahto42, many thanks for your detailed responses.

Norfolk Jim - You could be right, maybe I don't need codes, I've never disconnected battery so I don't know.
Mine's just the standard radio / CD / phone panel that appears to be on all T31s that have the Sat Nav screen option from 2008 until the facelift came out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
On further investigation by removing a pipe within the injection system above engine, there is definitely no fuel delivery when ignition turned on.
Also found fuse to fuel pump, it is perfect, no sign of heat at all.
However, next problem, the T31 M9R fuel pump has a cog and appears to take its turning power from the flywheel, not a motor, so there may not normally be a purr or running sound. The electric connection to it might only be throttle / speed achieved by opening or closing valve(s) inside it? I need to study this.
Diagnostic tool showed two fault codes which may not be related to my failure to start.
I still need to investigate them, they are 'P0560 - System Voltage' and 'P0606 - Control Module Processor'. But car has (had) no other faults and everything else on car has been working perfectly so I don't expect them to be serious, here's hoping anyway!
 

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My T31 face lift recently had a new battery and the head unit wanted the code before it would operate. It allowed me to open the menu on the bottom left of the screen and then I pressed the right pointing arrow which revealed the code. I'm sure I've never put it there so it was either the previous owner or the factory on installation. Maybe I have been very fortunate but the battery had to be changed so I just went for it. Try taking a look where I've mentioned or have a look around settings .
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I am worried now having read up on my 'P0606 - Control Module Processor' fault code.
I note that this module controls the fuel injection system among other things. Perhaps there is nothing wrong with my actual fuel pump at all, which, as I have said, showed no symptoms in previous days. Always easy to start car, no loss of power, great fuel consumption figure (sitting at 38.9 mpg recently which is a good figure for the 2008 150 BHP model) and my fuel filter has been renewed regularly with the correct Nissan part, including just four months ago.

Also, just as a side note, we tried to retrieve the VIN number when the diagnostic tool was plugged in. It was unable to retrieve the VIN. It is noteworthy that the VIN is normally stored on the PCM.

My battery is near the end of its life but certainly holds enough charge to turn engine over well enough to start car. Other key fault code was incidentally P0560 - System Voltage'.

Can Ahto42 or someone with knowledge kindly provide thoughts on this, and whether there is anything else I can look at for clues before I give up and get car towed to a suitable garage or electrical expert. Should I take fuel pump out and look at it? Though I don't think it will reveal any obvious clues.

Many thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ahto42, I notice that in a thread from the past you posted the following which might actually help me:

P0560 is low battery
P0606 is the ECM, can be related to P0560

Actually I am aware that my battery is close to the end of its useful life. It charges really quickly (so my alternator is fine) but doesn't hold its charge for very long if a few starts attempted, numerous electric circuits used, or car sits for a while.

So my poor battery may explain my fault codes, and dispel my worries about having to replace my ECM etc, but I don't know if this would cause my failure to start.

You also suggested that all connections to the ECM should be checked. I will have to check these asap and also have a look at my fuel pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Studying the Workshop Manual, I've just had a depressing shocker....

The fuel pump sprocket runs off a camshaft, not the engine flywheel as I had first assumed.
So you know whats coming ..... if pump is not delivering fuel, ie camshaft not turning when engine cranking, then timing chain failure comes into the picture, oh sugar!

Could someone kindly assure me that with a timing chain failure I'd have heard a related noise, and surely I would have had a multitude of other warning codes like camshaft sensor etc?

First thing in morning I'll have to attempt to eliminate (fingers crossed) timing chain breakage!!!
 

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The P0606 code I had too when my Pioner aftermarket headunit pulled the CAN network down.
Changed the headunit fo a chinese android one that uses no CAN, everything is sorted.
Did you removed the return pipe from the injectors?
Only pipes where fuel can come is from the steel pipe that goes from the pup to the fuel rail, from fuel rail pipes to the injectors and from the return pipe. It is like a L shape, goes on top of the injectors and has a valve on the shorter L end.


If the valve in that return rail is leaking/let doo much fuel back to the tank, then it is hard to start when cold engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'm afraid I have to report my worst fear. It does appear that a BROKEN TIMING CHAIN is indeed the cause of all of the above. No camshaft rotating, therefore no fuel pump turning hence no fuel being pumped. Its simple logic. I knew it could only mean timing chain no longer linking the camshafts.

Yesterday I took the front right wheel off, selected out of gear, removed the accessory belt plastic access panel and turned the engine over via the crankshaft pulley bolt. In normal direction of rotation I got a couple of turns, it even felt as if there was still some compression. But when I cranked engine the other direction, I hit a stop after about 90 degrees with accompanying metal sound. Then going the right way again, the whole thing completely locked up. It appears to me that the timing chain and guides are trashed, and the remaining pieces are bunching up on the crankshaft sprocket, jamming it and preventing the crankshaft from hardly turning at all now.

So its bye bye to my T31 for a few weeks. I've already had to quit my job at the airport where I worked shifts outside public transport times and look for something closer to home. Not the end of the world as I've already found a couple of options with higher pay, so hopefully all will work out in the end. Maybe it was time to change jobs anyway.

I have no choice but have the car repaired, as in its current state its probably only worth a few hundred pounds. Whereas in very good condition, similar cars in age (2008) and mileage (120K) are still selling for between £3,000 and £5,000. My car was in virtually perfect condition in every other way, no corrosion, no other faults and meticulously maintained. I am expecting the repair bill to fall somewhere between £1500 and £2500 depending vastly on extent of interior damage.

I should also add that during furlough I was almost going to change the timing chain as I thought I heard an unusual sound (discussed in another thread). I had priced the timing chain kit, the special tool(s), and all the other parts needed. I had also studied the process (couple of great videos on Youtube) and was confident at taking on task. HOWEVER, my local Nissan dealer persuaded me against it, telling me that the chain would last for life of engine, they had never changed one, and had never had one fail on any X-Trails they had sold. Oh dear!!!

Japanese car, yes, but I knew that the Renault engine would be its achilles heel. I must report to forum members that my car had full stamped Nissan service history up until I bought it at 81,000 miles, then I have serviced it meticulously with the best synthetic oil (Castrol Edge with Titanium) that I could buy, and always used Nissan's own filter. I did not tow anything, and drove it very carefully and easily. Seldom ever pressed the pedal full down when accelerating, and never over revved engine.

What more can I say!
 
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