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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2005 X-trail SVE 2.2dci 103000 miles, owned since 2015 and driven approx. 15000 miles – Chesterfield based

Hi guys just had a scary problem with the vehicle and hoping you can give me some guidance as to a solution!

This afternoon when driving on country lanes at about 50mph, when there was suddenly loss of power and no throttle response. The vehicle slowed but continued to run if the throttle was depressed fully but would only go up to about 20mph. I had to continue like this for about two miles with hazard light on as nowhere safe to stop, uphill it would only go 10mph but luckily there was a layby at the top.I’m guessing this was limp mode? Never experienced it in this car before so not sure – there were no warning lights whatsoever on dash.

It had had a flat battery earlier in the week, which I put down to lack of use, so I first checked the battery with multimeter in layby which was 14.55v running and 12.5v when engine off so seemed ok battery/alternator wise. Restarted the engine, tickover no problem and throttle working fine and car driving great???

Carefully drove home without issue and tried my £30 Autolink AL319 code reader – surprised to see no codes whatsoever and the throttle position data was showing the correct % when depressing the throttle various positions? Gonna call into my friendly local garage in morning see if their expensive code reader brings anything up

Theres a couple of things I’ve thought of which could be related, other than the low battery charge.

  • All timed We’ve owned it its “hunted” the revs when cold – was looking at changing the scv soon? Also, rattly engine noise when cold but seems they all do this?

  • Maybe 3 times in time We’ve owned it when accelerating through gears and getting to about 60mph its hesitated and wouldn’t go above 60mph (wasn’t anywhere near rev limit) until I changed gears and revved again then was fine?

  • Over last few years car had been parked up over the winters 6 months at a time on decent trickle charger while we were working away which I know doesn’t do it any good
It’s the Wife’s’ car and she’s now worried to drive it as if fault happened on motorway could be very dangerous

Can you please give me some idea as to where to start and what sequence? Was hoping to see some codes to get me going right direction and I know an intermittent fault can be difficult to find. I’m ok with the spanners so happy to try some fixes if anyone can please help!

Searching on this great forum, I can see suggestions for similar faults :-

New air filter ( we service regularly)
Change fuel filter (done maybe 8000 miles ago with genuine Nissan),
New battery (good Varta one fitted 3 years ago)
SCV valve (is this more for the “hunting” problem thank no throttle response?)
Replace TPS/throttle pedal assembly?
Ecu not sending signal to TPS?
Replace Camshaft position sensor?
Replace/unplug MAF see if any different response?

If I can’t sort it myself can anyone suggest a specialist local to Chesterfield/Sheffield?

Its been a great car so far and the Wife loves it so want to make it all better and keep it as long as possible!

Thanks in advance for your time and attention

Pete
 

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Check out (6) *** Happened ? The Great Mystery | Nissan X-Trail Forum (x-trail-uk.co.uk) as this is very similar.

My T30 also sounds a bit rattly first thing but then quietens down after a short distance. I am careful not to either rev up or lift off abruptly during the rattly phase just in case the cam chain is not fully tensioned. The mileage on my T30 is just under 129k. Just wondering whether it would be a good preventative move to replace the cam chain and tensioner. Any thoughts? (Apologies for high jacking the thread.
 

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08' T31 Adventurer 2.0dci
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Keep a bit of paper in your glovebox with this reset procedure written on it below as it might help you when xtrail goes into a limp mode ...................



To carry out the reset carry out the following

Turn ignition on so all dash lights come on.

Wait 3 seconds

PUMP accelerator pedal 5 times within 5 seconds....

with foot now OFF accelerator wait 7 seconds...

After 7 seconds press and hold down accelerator pedal for 10 seconds...

After 10 seconds the Engine Management Light will start to flash, at this point remove foot from accelerator.

the Xtrail is now in diag mode, so let the EML flash for a bit. the press and hold the accelerator pedal down for more than 10 seconds..this will then reset ECU and fuel pump etc......and put them into learning mode.

NOTE: When the EML light is flashing, this is listing possible fault codes... so if you know how to read the fault codes or know the sequences then you can figure out any possible faults with your Xtrail without getting the dealer to do it!!






You have named most of the problems in your post, but I always tend to go first with the SCV if you don't know if it's ever been done and car drives fine after a re-start .Easy enough to change
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Keep a bit of paper in your glovebox with this reset procedure written on it below as it might help you when xtrail goes into a limp mode ...................



To carry out the reset carry out the following

Turn ignition on so all dash lights come on.

Wait 3 seconds

PUMP accelerator pedal 5 times within 5 seconds....

with foot now OFF accelerator wait 7 seconds...

After 7 seconds press and hold down accelerator pedal for 10 seconds...

After 10 seconds the Engine Management Light will start to flash, at this point remove foot from accelerator.

the Xtrail is now in diag mode, so let the EML flash for a bit. the press and hold the accelerator pedal down for more than 10 seconds..this will then reset ECU and fuel pump etc......and put them into learning mode.

NOTE: When the EML light is flashing, this is listing possible fault codes... so if you know how to read the fault codes or know the sequences then you can figure out any possible faults with your Xtrail without getting the dealer to do it!!






You have named most of the problems in your post, but I always tend to go first with the SCV if you don't know if it's ever been done and car drives fine after a re-start .Easy enough to change
thanks Leafy don’t suppose you or anyone would know the correct part numbers for the denso scvs for my car please?
 

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08' T31 Adventurer 2.0dci
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Nope just the one SCV on a 05' Xtrail 2.2 dci(Direct Common - rail injection ) engine

.The Di (Direct Injection) engine as fitted to the earlier 2.2 Xtrail had the 2 SCV's and many sellers on ebay say 2 fit the Dci as well which is misleading.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks so much Leafy, just ordered a genuine Denso one for £50.98 on Ebay. Bristol motors Nissan Chesterfield said it doesnt exist and I need a £2000 pump, yet their Sheffield garage said they could get the SCV in 3 days for £161 plus vat - Both fantastic offers!!!!

I had a look down the back of the engine with a torch today, but couldnt even see it so looks like a fun job! Sure better ,fingers crossed, once the scuttle and wipers are off using the great guide on here - let you know how I get on doing it and if it fixes my issues.

Appreciate all the help given by everyone so far means a lot!
 

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I have done a couple in the past and many owners on here have changed theirs .Once the scuttle panel is removed there is a lot more room to get an arm in down the back to the injector pump and remove SCV

It may sort the problem and may not but it is a fairly common problem they have from time to time and to throw £50 at it and do it yourself is worth a go
 

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Just about to do mine today.

Half done ie old valve out & new one going in tomorrow. Such a fiddly, knuckle scraping job. I found that the top bolt was only finger tight & a few bits of shredded o ring from the last change.
I found that the best tool was a 1/4 hex 5mm allen bit in a small hex ratchet handle
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
UPDATE - Not changed scv yet as its developed another problem flat battery after about a week of no use, Varta battery was checked as amazingly had a week left on 3 year warranty, local garage tester showed battery "weak" but surprise surprise supplier i bought it from tested it and said it was ok. They charged it up and again went flat after a week. Deciding now if is the batteryor a parasitic drain but not had time yet to either recharge battery and check amp draw each circuit or new battery and same!! Annoyed if maybe they just said it was ok as a week left on warranty which has now obviously expired!!! Was gonna disconnect the neg lead and see what the amp draw is with multimeter witheverything off if thats correct????
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I stripped and removed scuttle easy enough, but couldnt get in the allen key bot with an allen key or my 3/8 drive 5mm allen key socket - guessing i need an extra long version of this, darent risk it and disable car if dropped a bolt or couldnt get scv out. How the heck do you do thiis and know the o ring seals are all in nice when refitting when you cant see it at all? Might bow down and let my local garage sort this one for me, seems a bit of a stretch to do at the roadside with limited tools!
 

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I stripped and removed scuttle easy enough, but couldnt get in the allen key bot with an allen key or my 3/8 drive 5mm allen key socket - guessing i need an extra long version of this, darent risk it and disable car if dropped a bolt or couldnt get scv out. How the heck do you do thiis and know the o ring seals are all in nice when refitting when you cant see it at all? Might bow down and let my local garage sort this one for me, seems a bit of a stretch to do at the roadside with limited tools!
You've done the worst bit taking the scuttle panel out . Yes use a few extensions if you have any on the 3/8 driver with the allen socket you'll manage it (A magnetic pickup tool helps to remove bolt if your worried about dropping them),the O ring sits in a recess in injector pump so should stay in quite well ,if you do take old O ring out then inspect it for cuts -nicks .You should be able to look right down over the SCV from above if you lay over the engine to pull out and re-fit quite easy .Get on and do it don't worry .Maybe stick an old towel under the car or pump if you think you will drop a bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
so my local garage tried to replace the scv for me today while was in for mot. They phoned to tell me the part I bought above as recommended by Leafy was the wrong part and it wouldnt go in even with the spacer provided/??? They took a photo showing the old one at bottom and new one at top with red grease on it. Agree it looks a lot different - Can anyone shed any light on this? The part I bought on ebay was listed as a Denso 294009-0120
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Machine tool Engineering Automotive wheel system
 

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