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A hint was in my second, T30, thread.
I allways looked at the T31 diesel auto adverts and one that had come down a bit from its prize. So i brought it home.

It is a 2012 LE grade, 2.0 diesel with the auto box.
Front and rear heated leather seats,
rear camera in the mirror.
Xenon head lights,
Auto whipers. auto headlights an so on.

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
bloggsy said:
Nice - anything planned for it? :thumbs:

Cheers

Bloggsy
First on the line is tow bar.
Then the speakers- on the T30 are better. Not much, but better.
Fit a aux transmission cooler,
improve sound proofing, The doors have nothing in them.
maybe a remap, with egr disable.
The only problem is that the mic for BT does not work, also the mic with the Pioneer. Maybe that is because i use Nokia Lumia with WP 8.1. Have to try with wife's android.
Rear camera image is on the mirror, but not on the head unit.
I try to find a Left side luggage drawer for decent price, but i think it is Mission Impossible.
 

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Hi Ahto

Thats a nice looking motor. As already said, Im looking forward to see what mod's you do over the coming months.

Kind Regards
Mike :thumbs:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Oh and get the PTC heater to work. Mine does not work also. Went to the dealer to check with the Consult 3. The technican sayd that there is no PTC heater in the BCM section. In the fusebox are fuses and reays.
They sayd to book another 1-2 hours, so they can fiddle withe the BCM.
When there is no other option that replace and reprogramm the BCM, then i will connect the signal from the heated seats to the PTC relays.
 

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Is that all?! :lol: :lol: :lol: Looking forward to hearing how you get on.

I followed with envy your work on your T30, so I'm glad you've got a T31 so I can learn how you do it! :thumbs:

Cheers

Bloggsy
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The PTC heater relays are ground side controlled(on the x-trail). That means that the climare control panel(auto amp in nissan terms) sends ground to the relays, when outside temp is below 5c and coolant temp is under 70c(according to Kia cee'd service manual).
My thought is that, the hardware is there, the Repair and testing in service manaul is there, I think that Nissan had stepped off on half the way, because no warm air is coming from vents after a minute. ECM, BCM or the auto amp has no algoritm for that.

With help from google translate i studied the Russian QQ owners club forum. And one of them fitted the heater element from 1.5dci to a 2.0 petrol. Because below -25c, defosting is hard even to petrol engines.
He used a 50A relay and fuse and took trigering +12v from ac panel IGN wire.
I have all the hardware in place, but mine is the facelift model and no service manual for it yer from the net, the wiring colors are a bit different from the 2007-2010 model. I have to find the wires from the AC panel to the relays manally.
My plan is to take relay, and make it supply groud via a switch to the PTC relays. Had to test the alternator for its power, can it handle the full power in idle or have to use 1/3 or 2/3.

What do you guys think? is it worth to pay the dealer, to try to get it work like it sould? They can not quarantee to get it work. Or do the manual override?

Would it be nice that it should work like this:
 

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Finished my first mod. I got the OEM AUX PCT heater to work.

As i mentioned before, the relays are controlled by ground signal from the climate control.
The positive side is always hot. So with a multimeter I looked what wire is what.
In this box are Level 1 and level 2.
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Found level 3 here.
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Multimeter set to continuity, with beep, and extention wire
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One sucker found. 2 to go.
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Took the ground from the stereo, positive for the switch light too. I but the groung wires to the positive terminals and positive to ground.
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These are going to the wires to the climate control connector.
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Applyng ground to the connector wires, you can hear the relays clicking.
It works fine, but when the positive to the switch is connected, then there is a problem. The engine will only shut off, when the key is off position. I removed the positive wire from the switch. Have to play with diodes and maybe another positive source.

The went air is warmer is warmer after 30seconds. But when driving, it is getting warm bretty quick.
I do not recommend to let it idle very long when the PTC heater is on. Because it is a heavy load on the alternator. The voltage drops from 14.5V to 13,5V, but raises quickly back to 14.5V. The OEM system should monitor the alternator load.
Quote from Kia sportage system description: Outside temp below +5c and engine temp under 70c. The system engages level 1, Then the system monitors voltage for 15 sec. Then it is above 12V then it enables level 2. The system monitors the voltage for another 15 sec and when it is over 12V, then it enables level 3.

I connected it so that all 3 levels are firing up at the same time. You can connect how ever you like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Towbar installed last night. Took few pictures, not many, it was late and night(sorry), will post them monday.
A little hint. Buy a M10 tap, maybe a M8 and M12 too. The welded nuts on the brackets are a bit misalign and a bit schrinked from welding. And a bit powder coat in the threads. The horisontal bar has M12 threads, but my kit had not included them. And no nuts for that bar too. Fortunally, my brothers shop has some leftovers, but no M12 washers for the bar. I get them monday.
So, I recommend to assembli the tow bar on the floor first to ensure, that everything fits, nothing is missing.

The wiring kit is OEM from ebay, we could get only universals here at the same price. I choosed the 13 pin socket. The additional kit costs more than the main wiring kit. So , I took IGN from the 12V socket and permanent 12V from a thick wire in the drivers footwell. Of corse, i put a separate inline fuse on these wires.

Bought a propane soldering iron kit from aliexpr for 16 euros, plus good solder and some connectors from electronics shop.
Will test the wiring today on a mates mobile sauna.
 

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Did my fist small service yesterday.
Ohh dose F*CKING ENGINEERS!!! :starwars: :boxing: :[email protected]

Who decided that the dipstick and oil fill must be the same? The fill tube ID is like 6mm and the filling hole is big, so corse i overfilled the hole. Notided when i heard dribles on the floor. Fist thought was, id I forgot the drain plug. Can of brake clean is wasted now. Filling must be done very gently.
Oh and the plug is 8mm 4 square allen. I know, i should be lucky to have a dipstick, but still...... :headbang:

Engine air filter is very easy :thumbs:

And now we come to the cabin air filter. That realy realy p*ssed me off.
Right hand drive like in UK, have it easy. 6 screws and glove box off and you have great access. But with LHD.... ohh the blood pressure is raising.
You have to remove acc pedal assembly, but the holding bracket is still front filter
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There is like little over 10cm room in front the filter.
 

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Brakes started do begin squeeking. So brake service was yerterday with new disks and pads.

Lifted the car up in brothers garage to inspect.
Nissan service center did a lousie job last time. The rubber was not over the slider pin rant. New pin kit was like 5 euros.

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Thos f***ing engrineers! No wonder that my brother hates to work on Japanese cars.
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Fortunally it comes out when taking the caliber off. Just have to put it on an angle and wigling it out.

Here it the pin thad had not the rubber on it. I was lucky and got it out with penetrating fluid and a metallic trim clip removal tool. It was helping to put pressure when wrenching it out.
The rubber ring was expanded and made it hard to turn.
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Wanted to do all4 corners, but brother made a mistake when orderind the disks. Turns out that there are 2 seizes. 296 and 280mm. We took measurments and I had 296mm. But he accidently ordered the 280 one. The difference is in height. The 280mm is 5mm higher and goes fast the knuckle.
The right ones(zimmermann) are here middle next week, because he has experience with other cheaper brands that where in stock and would get them even on saturday.

All 4 corners had sidepins that where hard to move. I did remove the rubber ring from all of them. It expands over the time and seizes up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The days are colder now and did some testing with the PTC heater. Does it something or not.

Outside temp was 7c and with the ptc heater on, i felt that the warm air came quite quickly from the wents.
Bought a digital thermometer with a probe. Probe sticked in the face vents, direction to face, blower to 3/4 and temp to max.
Car was idling(700rpm) with 68c coolant temp(OBD port reading). With the PTC heater ON, blower air was 60.5c. Turned it off, the blowed temp fell to 52c. Turned it back on, temp raised back back to 60c.

Have to make a constant long run to test with higher engine temp. And with raised rpm when parking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Did my 2nd engine service after 10k km/6k miles today. 7,4L Mobil1 Super 3000 XE 5W-30 went in. This time I was smarter and did dot overfill the dipstick hole.
Changed the fuel filter too. 15-20 minutes job. Many aftermarket filters have an isolating sponge arround the filter, you have to remove/scrape off it, because the clamp is to small. Videos on youtube can be found how to do that.

Still not impressed with the pollen filter location and how to chane it.
Video is in Russian, but you get the idea how it is with steering wheel on the left side.
.
I had to scrape a half mm off with a sharp knife(leatherman) from the end widenes, because Blueprint filter was 1 mm too wide and the fahr side did not went in to its slot and the cover did not lock in. Did the scraping and it locked.

My brother warned me about a fault that may occur. A hight pressure plastic tube will break on the return lines under the injector cover. You can drive, but fuel will spill. New from nissan is like 400 euros. From Poland is like 150€.
So if that hapends to you, then you know where to look.

Changed to studded winter tyres too. Went with 225/60R18 HANKOOK Winter i´Pike (RW11) 100T

I know that they are not in spec, but the 1cm more rubber makes the ride more comfortable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
On a drive to work I noticed burning brake smell. I suspected to be rear left brake piston, but when the caliber was off, then the pins and piston moved like they shoult. Turn out that the parking brake was seized. it was -5c outside and somewhere the cable sleeve is broken. Ordered new cables and as allways, youtube will help.


This video is about the Qashqai, but the are basicly the same. Sleeve was broken at the same spot like on the video.
Major diference is in the cabin. I have a small hole for the cable tension adjuster. Then when removing the center console back panel, the 2012 x-trail has vents and drink holders. The panel is hold by 2 screws, and the panel pops off. The drink holder is held by 2 screws and it slides out. I did not have to cut the carpet to gain more access.

Under the car was like on the video. But one clamp bolt, on both sides, is near the lifting point and my brother has only Quick Jack style lift and a canal. Accsess to it was very difficult to me. Behind the lifting rubber block. I thightened the fasteners when the car was on the ground. Inside the car, I had to pull the cabels out with pliers to install them on to the bracket.

Took me about 3 hours to do both sides, because as I mentioned the 2 bolts where PITA. I really thought one moment to but the wheels back on, lower the lift and remove the fasteners.

Still MOT this year, hopefully it passes with flying colours.
 
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