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 Post subject: Throttle Position Sensor Repair - T30 Series One
PostPosted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 10:54 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 22, 2011 9:36 pm
Posts: 492
Location: Kent
Car:: X-Trail :)
Model: SVE - YD 2.2 ETi Series I MT.F6
Year/Plate: 2003
Colour: Muddy when possible
Mods: Geolander AT/S - RUD Chains - TBar - Sump Guard - Whispbar Roof Bars - EGR Headlight Guards - Bonnet Guard - Pioneer - CB - CGP - Recovery Kit .....

The car had gone into limp mode. I was lucky to have put the ELM327 into the dash pocket, so using diagnostics on Car Gauge Pro in the car park found it was the dreaded Throttle Position Sensor fault. I was able to clear it and got home. :biggrin:

I then looked a get a replacement, OK so that was not going to happen. The 8 pin used on the ETi throttle was at least £275.00 and that was on Ebay! So on to the forum and after some digging around I found this by someone called philjimbill ? They posted this very useful description - - It was enough for me to sort the problem. :thumbs:

So here is PJB's "How To" with pictures and what I did.....

You need a 12mm Long Reach Socket with a wobble bar extension and small ratchet, I used 1/4 drive. You could use a ratchet spanner if you have one, just bit more awkward to get to.
You will need a PH2 Phillips screwdriver NOT a PZ2 Pozi !
Paint marker or similar. You need something quick drying and enough to go metal and plastic, "tippex" or similar perhaps.
Get tin of cleaner for electronics, I used Halfords, but various available including Maplins and a non lint cloth, I used a fine microfibre absorbent cloth.
Have a small clean tray or box to put the parts into, especially if you are working in a mucky environment.
Kneeling mat, old tarp or poncho - to kneel on while you get the throttle pedal and assembly unbolted and back on again.

Park the car where it is safe to work on level ground, you will need to get to the drivers side foot well. Ensure the vehicle engine is switched off and hand brake is on. You are best doing this in good daylight on a dry day, or in a well lit garage, with room enough to have the drivers door fully open. Grab your spanner or socket. Open drivers door fully, and you will need to put your kneel pad, or whatever you are using, on the ground. Locate the throttle pedal, that's the accelerator to you and me.

Get your 12mm socket or spanner. Start with the top nut, this the one directly above the pedal, not the 10mm on the bracket to the side. Once that nut is off do the same with the bottom but do not pull the pedal off yet.

Put your tools down, and using your right hand reach up under the dash and hold the grey black plug going into the top of pedal assembly, you will notice that it is a release catch on the top.


Using your left hand gently lift the pedal and assembly off the fixing pins. Now using your right hand pull the plug off, you will need to press the catch at the top down with your thumb. It should come out easy enough, but be careful not to pull on the cables going into the top of the plug.


Put the pedal assembly on your work bench, or where ever you are working. Place it so the black cover with the two screws is facing up. MARK WHERE THE SCREW POSITION is on the cover if not already marked. Use a quick drying paint pen or similar as suggested earleir. You do not want this to come off as this marks the position of the broad underneath on the mount, and therefore where the graphite tracks sit, get it wrong and you will through your idle rpm out the window.


You will need a Phillip PH2 screwdriver, not a PZ2. I picked up the wrong one, not having the glasses on, and found it would damage the soft alloy heads :roll:


Undo the two screws, and take off the black lid carefully. See first picture. Inspect the cover socket for damage.


The contact pins should be clean. Give them a gentle wipe over on the tips, spray your lint free cloth with the cleaner and wipe the tips upwards so it does not catch on the ends. Put to one side. Now we turn our attention to the TPS assembly:


Do not move anything, you will see the out line of the casing on the metal carrier, note the position. Also note the position of the "throttle" arms. Lift the "throttle" arms off the center pin complete with the metal ring spring, and then carefully turn it over, the ring spring will probably dropout, do not lose it ! Again put to one side.


Inspect the throttle trackers for damage, if they are damaged this may be the cause of your problem, but it is unlikely unless some ham fingered monkey has been there before you. Note the pegs sticking out from the base, at the top of the picture, this will be useful when you put it back. Again give the tracker tips a wipe with spray and cloth one at a time, wiping away so the cloth dose not catch the tip. Now for the base


The "throttle" base moves, it is not connected to the carrier - you have been warned. I did try using an OHP marker to mark it's position but this came off when I cleaned the tracks. You can see where the tracker tips have "scored" the carbon on the "throttle" base, this is what can cause a false reading. Use the cleaning cloth, but this time I sprayed the tracks and gently wiped off following them being careful not to go across the tracks. Any excess I dabbed off and then left to dry. You can see the base is visibly cleaner once done.

When dry, put it all back together. Make sure the "throttle" base is in the correct position, use the top edge as a guide is should be "square" to the metal carrier edge. Place throttle arms on the center pin, tracker pins down, and push home firmly, do not use a hammer or pliers, it has been know to happen, just your fingers. The pegs on the base will only fit one way, so it should go back in place with out issue. Put the circular spring back in place, then put the cover on. This is the tricky bit, if everything is back in place it should drop on, it has thin seal on it do not forget. Put both screws in by hand, make sure your mark on the casing lines up with the screw. Then using the Phillips screwdriver do the screws up in turn, till both are firm. Do not over tighten, they are not the best of screws.


That's it back together :biggrin: It just remains for you to get the throttle assembly back in place. You can give the pedal a quick clean, I also noted the footwell mount was a bit rusty, which I will sort when the weather is a bit warmer, and me knee can take it. Once you are back down at the foot well, plug in the socket on to the TPS, and fit back on to the mounting pins. Put the nuts back on, and do up by hand till firm. Then using your socket or spanner hand tighten, again being careful not over do it.

Plugged the ELM and checked the voltages, then went for a drive. A smoother power curve with a better "feel" as a result :mrgreen:

Forum rules apply - This post is for information only. Any repairs you carry out are your choice. No warranty implied or given.

Sometimes it's the getting there that can be as much fun as being there. Begin the journey.......

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