Hi, I have been considering buying a DA polisher but came across the label underneath the bonnet (Hard clear coat). can anyone tell me if I have to take any special considerations for this kind of paintwork ie pads.. cutting compounds.. etc.
Appreciate any help on this subject.. thanks

I have very limited knowledge on paintwork, so please take what I say with a pinch of salt and TRY AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!

I think it means that the paint has a clear lacquer over it. If you abrade it in any way (e.g. T-cut) you will take the top layer off the lacquer, rather than the paint. If, therefore, you get a scratch through to the top layer of paint, no amount of buffing will get rid of it - you'll just go through the lacquer. Once you've done that, you'll get to the paint and the buffing will work, but it will leave a big patch of the surrounding area with no lacquer on it. I guess that might subsequently fade at a different rate to the lacquered surface, or go dull, or something. Certianly, when I ordered some touch-up for my wife's T30, it came as two pots - oe of paint and one of clear lacquer.

I've been told that if you get a bit of something like T-cut on a rag and try rubbing a carefully cleaned (and inconspicuous) patch, have a look at the rag. If it turns the same colour as the paint, it's not lacquered. If it just stays the same colour or goes slightly grey, it's lacquered. (Don't know what happens if you've got a grey or silver car)!

I've also been told that if you lick your finger and wet the scratch with it and the scratch seems to disappear, it means its within the thickness of the lacquer and will buff out. If it doesn't, it has gone through the lacquer, and should NOT be buffed (for the reason stated above).

Thanks for the reply Avocet apprecaite it, was wondering what the "Approved refinishing materials" might be and if there are special pads I need to use if I buy a DA polisher.

Thanks again

Dunno. I guess that "approved" means "approved by Nissan"? As far as I'm aware, the paint they use isn't anything special, so any half-decent bodyshop would be able to handle it. I'd be inclined not to use any cutting agent on it unless you have fine scratches. As far as polishing is concerned, I've used Autoglym products on the wife's now and again and it doesn't seem to have done any harm (though I didn't use a mechanical buffer).

Yeah understand what your saying, probably best left to the experts so think I'll just stick to hand polishing lol,
thanks anyway.

Hard clearcoat usually means they have used a ceracote type ceramic lacquer and to maintain the bodywork warranty similar materials should be used for bodywork repairs. It also means it can be a bit of a pig to correct and you can sometimes need to go for quite an aggressive pad/polish combo to get adequate correction followed by multiple refining stages.
If your interested in paintwork correction I can recommend the training days offered on detailing world, well worth £50

Thanks for the info petrolhead, I do have a lot of swirls and would like to try and tidy them up a bit.
Have tried clay bar but having heard of how good the results are from machine correcting/polishing
thought it might be worth looking in to.
Will take a look at the training day you've suggested, again thanks for info.

Just seen this thread. Any detailing questions please feel free to ask. I have been detailing cars for over 15 yrs. Also, I'm a newbie to the x trail. Dont have the car yet so cant comment on paint thickness etc...

Rappy.

Bump. Guys ask away

Rappy

Hi Rappy - what's the best wax? I know it's subjective and everyone will have their own favourites but in your professional opinion?

Cheers

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