Hi, I have been considering buying a DA polisher but came across the label underneath the bonnet (Hard clear coat). can anyone tell me if I have to take any special considerations for this kind of paintwork ie pads.. cutting compounds.. etc.
Appreciate any help on this subject.. thanks
I have very limited knowledge on paintwork, so please take what I say with a pinch of salt and TRY AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!
I think it means that the paint has a clear lacquer over it. If you abrade it in any way (e.g. T-cut) you will take the top layer off the lacquer, rather than the paint. If, therefore, you get a scratch through to the top layer of paint, no amount of buffing will get rid of it - you'll just go through the lacquer. Once you've done that, you'll get to the paint and the buffing will work, but it will leave a big patch of the surrounding area with no lacquer on it. I guess that might subsequently fade at a different rate to the lacquered surface, or go dull, or something. Certianly, when I ordered some touch-up for my wife's T30, it came as two pots - oe of paint and one of clear lacquer.
I've been told that if you get a bit of something like T-cut on a rag and try rubbing a carefully cleaned (and inconspicuous) patch, have a look at the rag. If it turns the same colour as the paint, it's not lacquered. If it just stays the same colour or goes slightly grey, it's lacquered. (Don't know what happens if you've got a grey or silver car)!
I've also been told that if you lick your finger and wet the scratch with it and the scratch seems to disappear, it means its within the thickness of the lacquer and will buff out. If it doesn't, it has gone through the lacquer, and should NOT be buffed (for the reason stated above).
Thanks for the reply Avocet apprecaite it, was wondering what the "Approved refinishing materials" might be and if there are special pads I need to use if I buy a DA polisher.
Dunno. I guess that "approved" means "approved by Nissan"? As far as I'm aware, the paint they use isn't anything special, so any half-decent bodyshop would be able to handle it. I'd be inclined not to use any cutting agent on it unless you have fine scratches. As far as polishing is concerned, I've used Autoglym products on the wife's now and again and it doesn't seem to have done any harm (though I didn't use a mechanical buffer).
Hard clearcoat usually means they have used a ceracote type ceramic lacquer and to maintain the bodywork warranty similar materials should be used for bodywork repairs. It also means it can be a bit of a pig to correct and you can sometimes need to go for quite an aggressive pad/polish combo to get adequate correction followed by multiple refining stages.
If your interested in paintwork correction I can recommend the training days offered on detailing world, well worth £50
Thanks for the info petrolhead, I do have a lot of swirls and would like to try and tidy them up a bit.
Have tried clay bar but having heard of how good the results are from machine correcting/polishing
thought it might be worth looking in to.
Will take a look at the training day you've suggested, again thanks for info.
Just seen this thread. Any detailing questions please feel free to ask. I have been detailing cars for over 15 yrs. Also, I'm a newbie to the x trail. Dont have the car yet so cant comment on paint thickness etc...
I will try and keep things simple. Some waxes advertised as waxes are in fact sealants. It really depends on what you want achieve.
A long durable shine & crisp. Or a nice warm glow. But you can top waxes with sealants & vice versa.
Tell me what you want it to do. Then we can go from there. I would start with clay, polish, seal & wax. To get the deepest shine. Prep is 99% of detailing waxing or using sealants is the easy bit :lol: :lol:
I will try and keep things simple. Some waxes advertised as waxes are in fact sealants. It really depends on what you want achieve.
A long durable shine & crisp. Or a nice warm glow. But you can top waxes with sealants & vice versa.
Tell me what you want it to do. Then we can go from there. I would start with clay, polish, seal & wax. To get the deepest shine. Prep is 99% of detailing waxing or using sealants is the easy bit :lol: :lol:
Hi Rappy, thanks for that. I guess, I'm after protecting the paintwork first of all, then a deep shine - I don't suppose there"s a single product that would do most of what I"m after?
I'll probably get a clay bar next and spend the day on it, but I was just happy to get the chance to wash off all the road salt, and put on a 'seal' before the bad weather returns! :grin:
Thanks Rappy for your advice :thumbs:
C'mon folks - anyone else got the bucket and sponge out with the lull in the rain?!
I used Meguiars Dark Wax (got it from Amazon). I used about a quarter of the tube, I think! :lol:
I've got some cheap spray wax which I'll be using to 'top it up' and keep some protection going until the better weather's here - then I'll do as you suggest and use clay, compound and wax.
I used Meguiars Dark Wax (got it from Amazon). I used about a quarter of the tube, I think! :lol:
I've got some cheap spray wax which I'll be using to 'top it up' and keep some protection going until the better weather's here - then I'll do as you suggest and use clay, compound and wax.
Indeed they do bloggsy, but at the moment it is plastered in road grime after a weekend in Somerset. :frown:
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