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X-trail from Estonia Vol.2 T31 2012 2.0Dci auto LE

42K views 86 replies 13 participants last post by  Ahto42 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
A hint was in my second, T30, thread.
I allways looked at the T31 diesel auto adverts and one that had come down a bit from its prize. So i brought it home.

It is a 2012 LE grade, 2.0 diesel with the auto box.
Front and rear heated leather seats,
rear camera in the mirror.
Xenon head lights,
Auto whipers. auto headlights an so on.

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#27 ·
I use Delphi scantool from aliexprs. Like 30-40 euros you get a tool that reads every module. The 2016 software from them is somewhat corrupted and did dot connect with the engine ecu, but with others it did. I use 2015.R2 now, but still it has not the DPF burn option feature. My brother has 2014 ver software, but he did not get it from ali.
And I have an ELM327 Bluetooth dongle just for monitoring with the phone.
About the lights.
My best bet would be breakers, from a car with rear impact.
German Ebay maybe.
Here, in Estonia, we do not have aftermarket lights for the facelift model.

Was in Sunny Beach in June for a week with family and wife's sister family. We liked it a lot. Good weather you have there.
 
#28 ·
Thanks Ahto42, I'll take a look on Ali. I have seen headlights with H11 bulbs but I'm not sure the fitting is compatible with d2s fitting, don't think it is.
Yes it is good weather but still cold in winter however not down to -20 here up north eastern coast.

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk
 
#31 ·
#33 ·
Did change wishbones on todays evening on both sides. had a bit struggle to get the old ones out.
After that the annual rear brake service. Just cleaned the rust from the pad carrier under the hardware with a file, greased and back together. One side bads where already sticking. Also one slide pin had some dirt on it.
 
#41 ·
The washer pump was begin to fail and few months back i ordered suitable T31 pump from china for 7€ but it was dead when arrived. Then i tought to upgrade it with a T32 pump, because i have the T32 washer nozzles installer. The T32 pump is a bit bigger and the connector is different too.
First I searched for the connector. Went to van breakers and got the connector fom a vivaro for 1€.
Then I removed the connector from the broken chinese pump, there was 2 wires going to the motor from the connector. Soldered the vivaro connector to the chinese connector and creased and used tesa tape to seal it. Now I had a piece that was needen to go from T31 pump to T32. The T32 pump was like 15€ from fleabay uk.
Then jacked the car, removed the wheel and inner guard that much to get acces to the fluid reservoir. Wiggled the old pump out, but the new on did not fit in that spot, because it was bigger. :sad: :bigcry:
Luckly I had some 16mm OD pipe left from the fuel burning heater build and some hose too. Needed like 4cm pipe and same length hose. New pump went in to the hose, and the hoses other end went on the pipe. Then the pipe goes in to the reservoir with the rubber gromet from the old pump.
Easier is to connect the connector and washer hoses before installing the pump. Then i pulled the hoses a bit to get the pump in to level position.
Topped the fluid and went to first try, but the pump did nit want to prime fist time. Then i disconnected the piece under the bonnet where it goes under the whiper cover. And now it worked.

Unfortunally I forgot to take pictures.

Did some brakepad cleaning too. Ferrodo ones have 2 cleaning groves and when they are filled then the brakes start to make squeaks.
 
#42 ·
Did the oil change yesterday. And also rear diff and transfer.
Engine oil was straigth forward.
Gear oil is cheap, like 5- 6 euros 1L Castrol gear oil.
Rear diff was easy, drain plug 10mm 1/2 hex and with a tapping device few taps on the bit and it came loose. Dont panic, i did not drain the oil yet.
Filler plug is a it more complicated. There is no room for the 1/2 10mm hex pit i have.
Luckly my brother has a short straight 10mm hex bit. Tapping it in was a challenge, but thru a hole in the subframe, I was able to tap bit in. Then with a closed end wrentch and and 14mm wrentch for extention the the plug came loose. Old oil out and new oil in with an oil gun.

Then it was a transfer case time. Drain access was easy but searched the filler plug a bit. It is next to the turbo cooling lines that are going in to the coolant pump. Turned the steering to full left and with a long extention i was able to brake the plug loose. But my hand smashed on the drop link when it snapped loose. And then: " This summer's conna hurt like a mother f******".
Luckly the hand is not broken, still hurts a bit.
After that like at rear, old oil out and fresh in. This time filling was better with the castrol bottle.
Of corse i used new washers on all plugs.

Mine is LHD, so steering was not in the way. I have no idea, how the space is with RHD.
Hope that it helps someone.
 
#44 · (Edited by Moderator)
The fleabay washer pump is a bit faulty, straight from the box. You get what you paid for. The problem was that the valve on the pump where not working proberly. Ofter when sprayng whe front screen, it would spray to the rear window.
The T32 pump should have the non-return valve on it, but the 15€ fleabay one did not work and where stuck to let all water to the rear.
So I searched for the OEM pump. New from Nissan is 85€ in Estonia. Local breakers did not have it, because all cars where front impact.
I found one from German ebay for 30€+dhl from a ca 9000km car.

Right one is the OEM
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As you can see, the valve is 180degree on the aftermarket one, but the front washer hose goes on the left outlet. On the OEM one, the white nonreturn valve works, but on the aftermarket, I clould blow straight thu on both outlets.

Right is OEM
As you can see, the letters are almoust the same.
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My harness setup.
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#46 ·
Changed front brakepads yesterday because the ferrodo one where squeeking. I did everything to them: rounded the edges and
even the center cleaning split, plently of lube between the calliber and pads. But it all helpted for one or two brakings.

Brother recommended Roadhouse brand, and they come with two sets anti noise shims, ones are stainless steel, others have rubber coating. I used the rubber ones and braking is now quiet. Before every stop was a squeek.
With brothers discount they where a bit over 22€, list price is ca 30€ for the set.

As I mentioned in another post, I had my x-trail remapped to stage 1 and EGR off. I is ca 180HP and 380nm. I is impressive as the the 0-100km/h came down from 11,5 sec to 8,8 sec. I does not feel that quik at first because of the mass and autobox, but look at the speedo you realize it claims much faster. Also the WOT shifts are a bit lower rpms. Before it was at redline, now ca 4500 rpms, but will look at that once again.
 
#50 · (Edited by Moderator)
Whoops!?
What happened here?
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The cruise control started to reset it self sometimes when driving. Scanned the ECU whit ds150 and P1525 code with intermit.. comment. And it was there after deleting it.
Watched some YT videos about the fault and clock spring and on a russian video I saw that bought it from aliexpress. Found it for 15€ and ordered it. The cheapest part to load the parts canon for beginning.
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Left side is the new one. Had to swap over the angle sensor and it works.
Finally was able to earse the code and the cruise have'nt reset it by now.
 

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#51 · (Edited by Moderator)
Was cleaning/ servicing brakes before new tires. Rear inner pads were scticking allready. Hope that Akebono slide pin boots are better than previous 3 sets i tried. Turned to hard plastic with in a year.
After that new rubber.

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While changing the tyres, as usual wigled the wheel 9/3 and feeled a play in the front left lower joint. Last year i changed the both control arms, Lemfjörder.
Hope to get away with only changing the joint.

Also it sounds that the same wheel bearing makes noise.
 

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