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5w30 engine oil

30K views 45 replies 9 participants last post by  rufusbarry  
#1 ·
Is it still ok to use 5w30 oil in a xtrail that has done 185 thousand miles.Garage suggested a thicker one.What say you.Regards Baz
 
#2 ·
hi baz i would say thicker oil theoreticlly would make things less noisey but on a diesel? noise anyway, second if the engine is worn then its natural to assume outher parts are worn to i.e the oil pump and assotiated bits surly they would work harder? and my last consern the turbo oil fed thicker oil moves slower maybe, its all probably nothing to worry about as most damage is caused on start up why not try one of thoes fancey magnatec oils? or make sure everythings nicely wormed up before moving off helping with a few revs dont go over 3 thousand rpm.
 
#3 ·
Usually, the first effect of excessive wear that you'd notice, might be the oil pressure light taking a bit longer to go out - or maybe flickering on a bit at idle after the engine has been working hard (e.g. a fast run on the motorway and then idling at the top of a sliproad). If none of that is happening, there's no particular reason (in my opinion!) to move to a thicker oil.

However, plenty on here use 5W40 oil (myself included) and reckon it makes the diesel engine just that bit less harsh and rattly. The penalty is higher fuel consumption, but I doubt it would be measurable - it hasn't been for us! Certainly, 5W40 will do it no harm at that mileage.

The only thing I WOULDN'T do, is change the first number (the cold viscosity). Don't go to a 10, stick with the 5. You want the oil as thin as possible at cold start, to get round the bearings (especially the turbo) quickly.
 
#5 ·
pete-H said:
hi baz i would say thicker oil theoreticlly would make things less noisey but on a diesel? noise anyway, second if the engine is worn then its natural to assume outher parts are worn to i.e the oil pump and assotiated bits surly they would work harder? and my last consern the turbo oil fed thicker oil moves slower maybe, its all probably nothing to worry about as most damage is caused on start up why not try one of thoes fancey magnatec oils? or make sure everythings nicely wormed up before moving off helping with a few revs dont go over 3 thousand rpm.
Pete .Thanks for the good info .I already use Magnatec.So i think i will stick to what i am using Regards Barry
 
#6 ·
Avocet said:
Usually, the first effect of excessive wear that you'd notice, might be the oil pressure light taking a bit longer to go out - or maybe flickering on a bit at idle after the engine has been working hard (e.g. a fast run on the motorway and then idling at the top of a sliproad). If none of that is happening, there's no particular reason (in my opinion!) to move to a thicker oil.

However, plenty on here use 5W40 oil (myself included) and reckon it makes the diesel engine just that bit less harsh and rattly. The penalty is higher fuel consumption, but I doubt it would be measurable - it hasn't been for us! Certainly, 5W40 will do it no harm at that mileage.

The only thing I WOULDN'T do, is change the first number (the cold viscosity). Don't go to a 10, stick with the 5. You want the oil as thin as possible at cold start, to get round the bearings (especially the turbo) quickly.
Thank you for the reply. I will do as you suggest and when i change the oil again soon i will try Magnatec 5w40 Regards Barry
 
#11 ·
rufusbarry said:
rufusbarry said:
Is it still ok to use 5w30 oil in a xtrail that has done 185 thousand miles.Garage suggested a thicker one.What say you.Regards Baz
PS Is all 5w30 C4 Oil good for our Xtrails.Baz
You dont need to use C4 rated oil. That is a low ash oil designed for modern vehicles with dpf's and 3 way cats.

It wont hurt if you use it but you wont gain anything and will pay more for it.

Best regards
Milton :biggrin:
 
#12 ·
Avocet said:
Usually, the first effect of excessive wear that you'd notice, might be the oil pressure light taking a bit longer to go out - or maybe flickering on a bit at idle after the engine has been working hard (e.g. a fast run on the motorway and then idling at the top of a sliproad). If none of that is happening, there's no particular reason (in my opinion!) to move to a thicker oil.

However, plenty on here use 5W40 oil (myself included) and reckon it makes the diesel engine just that bit less harsh and rattly. The penalty is higher fuel consumption, but I doubt it would be measurable - it hasn't been for us! Certainly, 5W40 will do it no harm at that mileage.

The only thing I WOULDN'T do, is change the first number (the cold viscosity). Don't go to a 10, stick with the 5. You want the oil as thin as possible at cold start, to get round the bearings (especially the turbo) quickly.
Avocet.Thank you kindly for the very good advice.I shall do as you suggest and stay with the 5w30 fully synthetic.Merry Christmas to You and Your Family.Regards Barry
 
#13 ·
pete-H said:
hi baz i would say thicker oil theoreticlly would make things less noisey but on a diesel? noise anyway, second if the engine is worn then its natural to assume outher parts are worn to i.e the oil pump and assotiated bits surly they would work harder? and my last consern the turbo oil fed thicker oil moves slower maybe, its all probably nothing to worry about as most damage is caused on start up why not try one of thoes fancey magnatec oils? or make sure everythings nicely wormed up before moving off helping with a few revs dont go over 3 thousand rpm.
Pete Thank you for the good advice.Regards Barry
 
#14 ·
Firstly may i thank all the members who helped me with my oil problem.What i am now left with is 5 litres of Nissan Genuine 5w30 oil and 5 litres of 5w40 Granville oil.As the xy has done 185 thousand miles,a few members suggest i use the 5w40 for the oil change,and use the 5w30 for topping up.I was told not to mix oils.....but if i only use the 5w30 for topping up now and then it would not matter.Which oil would you use first for the complete oil change.Thanking you all once again .Regards Barry
 
#17 ·
I'm with Milton. They're probably not even the same brands with the same additive package. You'll end up with an engine that is full of neither one thing nor the other. Unlikely to do any actual harm (assuming your 5W40 is the correct grade - which, according to my handbook, needs to be ACEA grade B1, B3 or B4), however, I use a Grade C3 - which although our car doesn't have a DPF, at last makes me think I'm probably doing the cat a good turn!
 
#18 ·
Avocet said:
I'm with Milton. They're probably not even the same brands with the same additive package. You'll end up with an engine that is full of neither one thing nor the other. Unlikely to do any actual harm (assuming your 5W40 is the correct grade - which, according to my handbook, needs to be ACEA grade B1, B3 or B4), however, I use a Grade C3 - which although our car doesn't have a DPF, at last makes me think I'm probably doing the cat a good turn!
Avocet Thanks again for the advice .I did not know about all the different grades.I shall have a look to see what oil grades i have Regards Barry
 
#19 ·
i think so barry, the key is the longevity durability purity of the product the cheaper you go etc having siad that i got mine from tesco store a bargan, they had a selection of 5w oils reading the ladels closely i went for a 5w 30 a blend recomended for high milage cars i noticed a few there for mercs etc made me smile. synthetic must be replaced more often it just terns watery allso has a shelf life it would be safe to say once a year or every 12thou change.
 
#24 ·
rufusbarry said:
Colster said:
That will be fine Barry, but you need around 5.5 litres for a full oil and filter change.

Colin
Thanks for the answer Colin.ÂŁ11 For four litres fully synthetic .....freepost isnt bad .Shall get another one Regards Barry
PS Have just got my money back from Ebay as it was a compromised site,,whatever that means .Barry